Some thin vertical face moves lead to a very steep, sustained pocket pulling frenzy.

Happy Hole

Prison Sex

Face Melter Roof

Cocaine Rodeo

Vitamin K

Dickin's Cider

Reverse Cowgirl

Drug of Choice

Too Many Holes

Kama Sutra

Adrenochrome Trundle

Ecstasy

Trippin' Balls

Heroin Hoedown

Last Dance With Mary Jane

Acid Mother Temple

Mater Hater

Vitamin I

This route climbs along a thin left leaning crack system just right of Heroin Hoedown.  Fun liebacks and underclings with good feet will take you to an easier finish.

Technical slab climbing will keep you on your toes (literally) for the first four clips.  The route kicks back and requires a dyno or lunge move on steeper rock to a good pocket.  The crux is the rightward sequence that follows on nasty crimps and several more tough reaches.  From the jugs it steepens more but is cruiser to the top.  It should be noted that this route has no 'drilled' anything as someone alluded to in the Dickins Cider Description.  This route has fantastic movement, it is quite clean and very solid for the grade.

This route is just left of Cocaine Rodeo.  If you just go to the first set of bolts, it goes at 5.10a (and is called Acid Mother Temple).  Continue through the Face Melter roof and the steep climbing above for the full "experience" as Jimmy Hendrix would say.

This superb route has several distinct cruxes, with good rests in between.  The rock is super-compact throughout, with pinches, pockets, and crimps galore.  For the most part, it gently overhangs, though there is also a small bulge, and some slabby sections.

Begins stepping off a sizable boulder right into real climbing on the slabby lower half.  The third bolt seems a bit high for safety, so dont blow it before you get it clipped.  Cruise up to the roof on easy terrain.  The roof section is easy intitially but gets more strenuous and the holds get smaller as you go up.  Save some juice for the end, small holds and a difficult sequence guard the anchor.

Rugged thin start gives way to a rest before the crux starts.  The sequence is a little deceptive through here so good luck on the onsight.  This is typical Ten Sleep thin pocket pulling and technical feet.  After this find your marginal rests and you make your way through 5.11 climbing to the top where you'll encounter one last set of steeper pumpy moves.  Fantastic route!

Begin just right of Kama Sutra. Work up a corner with a flake feature for a couple of bolts. Move a bit left onto a cruxy face, then finish over a bulge with big jugs.

Just to the right of Cocaine Rodeo is another long line of bolts. Similar in nature to Cocaine Rodeo, it has a couple cruxes in the first 50 feet with good rests afterwards. The last half is a sustained technical face just right of all of the super chalked C.R. holds.

Start immediately left of Prison Sex on a slabby pillar connected to the wall. Stand on top of the pillar and suss out the pocket sequence above. This thin, vertical section might make you wish there were more holes.

The wall then kicks back in steepness.... and rock quality changes for the worse.  A great series of deep pockets lead to the chains. There is a lot of holes up here, but move quick and decisive or the pump will get you.

Just right of Dickin's Cider, the climb is thin and techy for 5-6 bolts, then steepens for a mostly juggy, but pumpy bulge finish.

Furthest route to the left on the Drugs and Sex Wall.  Slab to a big pocketed roof.

Start up the LF flake to some easier climbing. The crux pulls final roof and clips the anchors off a big jug.

Climb a right leaning flake to a thin bulge crux with a big move or on small hold crimps to the right.

Around the corner to the right of

Mater Hater

.

Using positive holds and pockets, tech your way to the first set of anchors below the roof.

Yet another fun 12 on the Drugs and Sex wall. Just to the right of cocaine, this route is easily distinguished by the left to right slanting ledge. Slap your way up this deceptively hard feature to gain the very fun crux which is followed by perfect two finger pockets on the headwall.

One note: I'm 6'2" with a +4 index and I could hardly reach to clip draws to the second and third bolts. Have your tall friend lead this first or, better yet, use a stick clip to pre-hang draws 2 and 3.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Drugs and Sex