Right and below the large double roof system, there is a smaller roof system. Belay under a large right facing and curving flake/fin that takes large pro. Work up this flake and onto the face under a small(2ft high x 6ft wide) roof. go above this and climb easy jugs to a large right facing diagonal roof. Belay here. Second pitch starts right of the diagonal roof and works up and right eventually turning a corner(below a large steep square face cut) and working up a right facing dihedral with a large finger crack. Belay at the tree with a large fist crack under it. Then either solo or belay a chickenhead 3rd pitch to the top about 5.3 for 30 ft. Walk off the 4th class chickheaded west/southwest slab.*really 2 pitches + hike up and off.DESCENT: The fastest descent off Waterfall Dome is via the cairned walk-off to the west/southwest.

Malex of Four Thoughts

Waterfall Cracks

Old Folks Boogie

No PPE

The Stain

Follows the cracks to the right of the two dominant roofs on the left side of the formation.  

  P1) Follow cracks and weaknesses to right of the two roofs. Head up chickenhead water mark to a stance below a small tree.  

  P2) Continue up and right to the chickenheaded face which turns to easy low angled terrain

"You know that you're over the hill. When your mind makes a promise that your body can't fill". - Paul Barrere (performed by Little Feat)

 Climb the knobby face a few feet to the right of the rightward arching flake or, alternatively, quasi-lieback up the flake itself on low-angle friction for approximately 30’ - 40'. At the top of the flake traverse, on easy friction, diagonally leftward for about 40'or so, passing below a series of small, downward-facing ledges to access a second robust, rightward-facing flake. Climb the face to the right of the flake to its terminus for about 50'. From here there is an obvious line of knobs and plates surrounding a prominent groove, leading upward past a series of small, leftward-facing flakes for about 75' to a smallish, round boulder with a half-dead shrub and into a boulder filled gully. 3rd-class the gully until it exits a short distance below the summit. Either continue to the top (it's a stroll) or scramble around to the left and then down the brushy, boulder-strewn flank to descend.

Make a beeline for the short, fat crack high on the wall, following flakes, knobs, et. al. Climb the crack. Say hello the to the black lizard that lives in the crack.Numerous options for exit exist -- e.g. where the angle lessens, above the fat crack, walk up next to the ginormous left-leaning flake-like feature.

On far left side of dome. Follows up a water stain on low angled terrain 

  P1) From the base of the water mark, behind a tree, climb up the stain with sparse protection to a small ledge under a small tree. 180' 

  P2) Follow stain to top.

Huge dome with some moderate multipitch climbing. The Dome is easily identified by the large double roof system on the south face(approximately perpindicular to the trail). The west/southwest face is a chickenhead dotted 4th/5th class slab that can be easily soloed to get down from the top. An easier but longer walkoff may exist to the northwest.

Description

Protection

Routes in Waterfall Dome