Pitch 1 - Climb the wide looking hand crack to a 2 bolt, 5.11b crux. You can also continue out left up the crack as an easier variation at 5.8. Scamper up moderate ledges to the 2-bolt anchor above.("Heart Of Gold Ledge"-this is the best anchor to rappel to from Routes 1,2,3,4 and 5! This is the best rappel to the ground...)

Pitch 2 - Climb straight up through the 2 roofs above(5.11a) and continue up the beautiful bolted line on high quality, glacially polished granite.(5.10+) ...A few pieces of gear in the beginning and at the end of this pitch brings you up to the 2-bolt anchor.

Pitch3-Follow bolts up under the roof(5.10d) and plug some gear before pulling the lip(5.10c). A thin finger size seam leads up to the large ledge at the top 2-bolt anchor.

After The Gold Rush

Journey Through The Past

Everybody Knows This Is Nowhere

Four Strong Winds

Comes A Time

Pitch 1 - start from the base of the large chimney slot to the right of The Tombstone. Climb the leftmost hand crack through lichenous rock and out left past 2 bolts. Continue straight up to stay out of the large(4-6") corner. Pass a few more bolts on the short headwall above and step around right to the belay ledge (5.9+).

Pitch 2 - power up past 2 bolts to gain the beautiful, leftward- leaning finger crack that climbs up to the 2-bolt anchor 90' above(5.10a).

Pitch 3 - follow the line of bolts over wildy featured rock past a few tricky cruxes up to the 2-bolt anchor at the large ledge (5.10b).

E.K.T.I.N. is the furthest route to the left on the F. Y. WALL. Instead of making this route 3 short pitches, I decided to make it 2 longer pitches.

The 1st pitch starts up the "Chimney Gully" and gains the arete corner out left. Beautiful, huge holds bring you up corners and roofs to the belay stance w/2-bolt anchor (120', 5.9).

The 2nd pitch climbs straight up the clean plaque of polished granite 160'. Incredible features lead past bolts and thin natural pro all the way up to share the same anchor as "

Journey Through The Past

".(160', 5.10c)

Four Strong Winds is a 2 pitch climb that I established starting from the "Heart Of Gold Ledge". Combined with "One Foot In The Grave", 5.11a (established by Lynn Sanson and John Gross in 2011), as the 1st pitch, this is another classic 3 pitch route.

Pitch 1 - is "One Foot In the Grave", 5.11a.  From its anchor bolts, continue up the blocky ledges up to the 2-bolt anchor at the "Heart of Gold Ledge".

Pitch 2 - step down and right to climb cracks and flakes for about 30' before reaching the line of bolts above. Continuously challenging 5.10 climbing brings you up to a 5.11b crux!  More 5.10 climbing brings you to the anchor that shares a stance at the 2nd belay of "

Comes A Time

"... Beautiful pitch!

Pitch 3 - start up the crack system above the anchor.  Continue up through the roof above and balancy finishing moves up to the 2-bolt anchors (5.10+).

Pitch 1. Start just to the left of "Transformation". Diagonal up and left on easy terrain to the bolted line above.... Quarter pad edges provide very thin and power sequences through the 2nd to 4th bolt...(5.11d). Pull up through the steep finish, and scramble up and left to the 2-bolt anchor.

Pitch 2. This is one of the best crack climbing pitches on the entire Monitor Rock. 50' of 5.9 cracks lead to the only bolt (connecting cracks) on this 130' pitch. Continue up the long 80' crack (5.10) past the tiny pine tree. It is assumed that this crack has been climbed before... (fairly new, single bolt was at top of crack...). I spent a lot of time excavating grass and earth from this crack to allow for proper jams.... It's getting better.... Classic pitch!

Pitch 3. Step up to the right past a few bolts. Climb seams and cracks leading to the right edge of the roof (old, old, pin found), and continue past a few more bolts up to the 2-bolt anchor (5.10a).

Description

Protection

Routes in 7. F.Y. (Forever Young) Wall