Pleasant and consistent climbing with a mild crux at the overlap climbs past a slight bulge, sloping ledge, and final headwall to chains.

I Just Woke Up

Crane Technique

50 Pounds of Lard

Red Sling of Courage

No Can Defense

Varied climbing up patina and flakes, with rests, leads to a step left finishing up an easy corner.

Pleasant and consistent climbing with a crux at bolt 3 leads past the bulge then up the final wall to chains. This is just a bit steeper and harder than

I Just Woke Up

. The name is an exaggeration of how much extra ballast one of the FA team felt like he was carrying, but don't we all feel this way sometimes?

This pleasant route climbs the right side of the south-facing rib of the West Buttress that is detached and slightly west of the main Sawmill Wall. Consistent climbing past several bulges for nearly 100 feet finishes at a steel carabiner/mussy anchor. The route was named for an unbelievably ancient rappel anchor found in a slot to the right of the climbing about halfway up: a barely-wedged flake of rock about the size of a Popular Mechanics magazine that came off with the flick of a toe.

Take the rib, corner, and face with increasing difficulty and use excellent underclings to clip to bolt above the roof. Move up and slightly right, then immediately cut left above the roof to an easier finish.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Sawmill West Buttress