Grab hold of a small flake, and make a long reach for the lip. Then make a high-step move into a lieback position.

Sit Down, Big Roof

Swipe Up

BIg Roof

Face Wipe

Face Wipe Low aka Swipe Right

Staring Contest

This is a possible FA. Let me know if this problem has been done before. I saw no signs of chalk, rubber, or evidence of scrubbing. I am calling it 'Staring Contest' for now because of the eye-like pockets on the arete.

Start matched on a large undercling at hip height with your left foot on a sloping face and your right foot on the larger ramp. Be careful not to dab as you make a couple of moves up the arete using pocket pinches and small slot crimps. The large flake to your right is off. It has pretty fun moves up unique holds, but the climb's quality is not the best, due to its awkward start and dab factor. Still, if you are in the area, it is worth doing.

Begin the climb starting on the double underclings on the right side of the small roof. Work left along the lip until you reach the holds on the center of the face, and work your way up from here. Basically, do the intro moves of

Swipe Right aka Face Wipe Low

, and finish as per

Big Roof

. This has good movement and is a nice warm-up for

Swipe Right

.

I assume this variation has been done before now. The name I have given can be changed if anyone claiming the FA would like it to renamed.

This is the west-facing roof problem on the Big Block. It can be ascended by grabbing hold of the corner from the lip and making a high-step move into a lieback position.

Start under the roof on small holds with huge feet, gain a good slot, and make a long move out to the lip. Follow the lip left until you can reach the arete. Squeeze and heel hook your way to the top! Fantastic.

From the double underclings, make a big, right hand move to a sloper on the arete. Use rad toe hooks to stay true to the arete until you can get your feet back on the start holds for

Face Wipe

, and then finish up as usual. This adds a few cool moves to the original.

Description

Protection

Routes in Big Block