5 ft. left of Trick or Treat. Face climb to a lieback flake, move up to an undercling, then, moving slightly right, power over a bulge on jugs.

Carving Pumpkins

Ghouls Just Wanna Have Fun

The Friendly Ghost

Bewitched

Trick or Treat

This is the longest route on the cliff, second from the right.

Start with an undercling, then power through (10b/c; somewhat height dependent) a slightly overhanging bulge to a ledge (3 bolts). Continue up an easier corner on orange varnish past a 4th and 5th bolt, then, at the 6th bolt, move left at a tricky undercling (5.10-), then back right past a 7th bolt up to the top and a chain anchor.

The 7th bolt was not used on the first ascent and was added later to protect the follower (or for toproping) from a bad swing and potential injurious fall.

A harder (10+) direct finish has been toproped: move right at the 6th bolt and power over an overhang. No need to clip the 7th bolt for a directional if toproping the direct finish.

Beware of crumbly rock at the ledge half way up and at the very top.

This is the second route from the left. Climb the steep face up to a horizontal crack. Hand jam right, then move up to clip a lower-off anchor. The gyrations to clip the anchor are all part of the fun.

This is a toprope variation of Bewitched. Start on Bewitched, move left on slab moves, then power through an overhanging section past horizontals.

This is the left-most route on the cliff.

Description

Protection

Routes in Sleepy Hollow