There is a tricky move past a drilled piton before you can get into the crack itself. The rock above and a bit to the right of the piton seems to be the best way to go. You can get a #3 Camalot in to the right above a little ledge. Once in the dihedral you can place one more #3, then it is #2's for the next 70'. about 20' from the top the crack narrow's a little to #1's, and then .75's just before the anchors. There are some features on the wall to give your feet a break. This is an awesome crack, but to this point it does not look like it has seen much traffic. It could still use some cleaning up.

Golden Child

Golden Showers

In a nod to the onslaught of sand throughout this route rather than the nefarious hobbies of our commander in chief, this route tackles the attractive and obvious crack system in a left facing dihedral about 20ft to the right of Golden Child. Scramble atop a detached block and venture through some rotten rock towards the double finger cracks and obvious hand crack. Follow the crack through a hanging chimney and some sandy wide sections to a stellar left leaning hand crack above that goes from #3's to #2's at the end and a two bolt anchor.

The second offwidth/chimney section has some loose blocks that may need to be cleaned. This is a very sandy route and has a fair amount of loose rock, so take care, bring a big rack, and check this thing out, it's wild!

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Protection

Routes in Golden Child Area