From the lower tier of ground at the base of the cliff, start behind the middle of a few big pines growing close to the cliff. Follow a series of cracks more or less straight up at first, passing a couple bushes, then angling left to cross

Western Web

. A short thin-hand crack takes you from

Western Web

to a small ledge. From its right side, climb a slim, left-facing corner to a small overlap and, above it, take the left-leaning, thin-hands splitter to the top and a two-bolt lower off anchor.

Established ground-up onsight.

Apocalyptic Lightning Storm

Choking Orangey

Ring Of Fire

Patina Palace

Chop 'em Down

Last Daze Of Pompeii

Western Web

The Last Caress

Rapture Of The Honeybees

Nate's Solo

Sample Collector

Follow the corner to the roof and surmount it into the continuing right-leaning, thin crack and the crux. When the difficulty eases, continue in the same right-leaning crack system to the top.

This was established ground-up onsight.

Climb the corner (pair of opposing corners really) and follow the slightly chossy groove above. This leads to a large ledge / terrace underneath the orange headwall, at the top of the cliff, that faces more West than the rest of the crag. Take the obvious, steep, left-leaning splitter through the headwall to the top. Use the same tree anchor as for

Ring Of Fire

.

This was established ground-up onsight.

Just right of the largest of the big pines growing close to the cliff, climb the steep crack (crux) over the bulge and cross the ledge to a steepening, right-facing corner. Follow it to an overlap, pop up and left out of it, then follow cracks up to the obvious, splitter, thin handcrack in the headwall above. Using this crack, and the one left of it, jam to the top. A small tree a bit back from the edge can be used as a belay anchor.

This was established ground-up onsight.

Start in the lower of two rectangular recesses near the base of the left side of the cliff. Move up and right into the higher one and pull out its right side into the shallow, right-facing dihedral. Follow the corner as it arches out right, then cast off onto the beautiful face above, passing two bolts, before reaching a left-facing flake system that leads to the top. Traverse right a few feet to the two-bolt lower off anchor on top of

Last Daze Of Pompeii

.

Established by a top-rope session, bolts placed on rappel, then redpointed.

This route has excellent crack climbing, hands and locker fingers, with the crux halfway up. It was established onsight freesolo.

This is a superb, thin crack pitch and the testpiece of the crag. With full knowledge of the potential bias of first ascentionists, I suggest this is one of the best single pitches of thin crack-work on Lumpy Ridge.

At the base of the left side of the crag, there are two rectangular recesses. Just right of these features find a shallow, left-facing corner. Follow this corner, and cracks angling left, up to the orange overlap. Move right under the overlap then launch up into the right-angling, thin crack above. At the first horizontal crack, move left to a short crack, take it to another horizontal, move left again and make one more set of moves to the two-bolt lower-off anchor.

After several falls on ground-up efforts, we resorted to a toprope session. Nate and I both succeeded on redpoint attempts on the next visit.

Climb the left-leaning thin crack / seam with a tenuous and tricky-to protect crux in the first 25.

This was established yo-yo style, ground up.

Take the left-leaning crack through the steep wall right of the starts for

Ring Of Fire

and

Choking Orangey

. Cross the big terrace below the orange headwall and climb the crack system on the headwall's right side. Just right of

Choking Orangey's

splitter.

This has good varied crack climbing with a funky roof at the bottom, a bunch of hand-jamming, and a cruxy wide spot 2/3 of the way up. It was established onsight freesolo.

Right of

The Last Daze Of Pompeii

, find an obvious, right-facing dihedral that ends at a roof 25' up. Gain this dihedral, negotiating the fallen dead tree however you like, and surmount the roof at a splitter little finger crack. At the horizontal crack (10' above the roof), move left to the right-leaning crack system. Follow this system for 25 to where you could step right on a small ledge to join the

Apocalyptic Lightning Storm

. This is where the ground-up FA was forced to exit. But the originally envisioned, and eventually completed, line goes straight up. At this point, eschew the tempting ledge out right, and head straight up to a very shallow, right-facing flake which, after a couple cruxy moves, leads to a horizontal crack with good gear. Move 6' left on this horizontal to another vertical crack that peters out and leaves you with a couple sets of perplexing moves to get to the anchor.

On the proud ground-up effort, Nate bailed right into

Apocalyptic Lightning Storm

. Only after toprope rehearsal did I successfully lead the originally envisioned line on 8-9-08. So, this line could certainly be considered a headpoint.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in The Long Walk Wall