Crux is the beginning towards the top. Stick clip the first bolt.

Sunday Mass

War on Rugs

Scary 7-11

The Munchies

About Face

More Wasabi

Wankenstein

You Bet Arete

[Redacted]

Crankenstein

Mona Peligrosa

All Hail Broke Loose

Short Term Memory Loss

Santeria

Back Off Crack

Bolted like Reimer's

Teenage Parties

Apprehension

Bolt Happy

Pearl

Wife in the Fast Lane

Bride of Crankenstein

Industrial Disease

Die Hard

Ant Encouters

Dude, where's my hammer?

Graded 5.10d in the guide book. This route is essentially a V2 boulder problem to get onto the wall followed by easy 5.10 climbing. 

  Reach from the ground up to the hollow looking and sounding flake that trends up and to the left. Pull on and hoist up into some pockets that really are not all that good. Once in the pockets stand up and continue up the face relatively easily to a thin section just below the anchors.

Described as 12a in the guidebook, this route has been overgrown with vines and ivy until I cleaned it off today (12/6/2020). If you are under 6 feet tall you probably cant reach the juggy undercling full of ferns from the ground, but if you are you can, and if you can then you can skip the "12a" crux. That's stupid.Use a cheater stack to reach the undercling, or be tall and reach the undercling, climb through a low 5.10 crux to the flake, then enjoy fun 5.7 climbing to the anchors.

 Bolt 1 is on a protruding shield of rock, directly under the large flake. Stick clip this, climb directly up to it, then follow the flake to Scary 7-11's independent chains.

Climb through thin and bouldery cruxes using big moves, bad holds, or both, all separated by big jugs, with a final little crux guarding the anchors. The jug flake system to the right is off. The hardest moves are found directly in the boltline.

Right hand starts 3' right of the bolt-line.

Bolt 1 is just above the curved edge of the roof.

Use Crankenstein's first bolt before moving left to bolts 2-4 of Bride of Crankenstein.

Start in the dihedral left of the arete. Bolts 1 and 2 are just right of the arete. R rating unless stick clipping Bolt 2.

A true one move wonder.  Stand on the rock pile while assuring yourself that it wont crumble and then grab what feels like and has been said to be a chipped first hold. Then paste your feet and make a huge throw to a jug. After that its ample 5.9 to the top.

Make difficult moves up into some tuffa formations then over a roof. Some nice pocket holds lead up to a huge jug. some techy moves on sidepulls take you up to some mail slot type holds. A few more moves take you to huge flakes that are followed to the anchor.

From John Hogge's book: From the boulder, clip Bolt 1 of Wife, then go down to start on the ground. Bolts and anchors slant slightly left. Runout to Bolt 3 over a ledge hazard. Rick and several committee members support a retro. 

Start on Gang Bang. Move left after the first throw.

Back Off Crack is located on the far right side of Crankenstein wall.  Look for a pair of climbs that start of small boulders at the base of the wall and share and anchor.  Back Off Crack is the crack climb on the right with the lone bolt about two-thirds of the way up.  Climb the solid crack with great holds to the bolt.  Large stoppers and hexes are helpful, but you can also run it out to the bolt.  At the bolt, head left on thin face moves (crux) that lead to a shallow dihedral.  The holds and clipping stance at the anchors are pretty good.  One anchor is on the face and the second is above the rim.  Be prepared to rap off.

Start up the crack and quickly traverse back left to the second bolt on nice pockets. Work up the face to a difficult section getting to a ledge on the left of the line. Reach out right out clip the last bolt and make delicate moves out onto the face and up to jugs just below the anchor. 

  Based on how this is bolted the FA really wanted to keep you out of the crack, the first bolt is way left. However this would mean using a hollow undercling.

Fun start in the low bulge to nice pockets that get sharp the higher you go. Then a balency finish to the anchors. 

  This route though graded harder than its neighbor, War on Rugs, seems about the same in grade. It can be a bit dirty though because a lack of traffic.

The start is just right of the bolt-line on a 3-finger horizontal right-hand slot just left of the chossy drip.

Starts on the right of a large flat boulder. Route follows right leaning ramp up to a small roof. Anchors are just left of a large orange patch at the top. 

  Stick clip bolt 2 (and bolt 1 for the belayer) until you have this wired. 

  Large poison ivy plant dangles precariously close the the starting holds. Someone please pull that sucker!

Slightly intimidating step off the boulder. Some cool jigsaw looking features. Then up to some tuffas out right, a long move up to a jug sidepull. A traverse left to a horizontal and up to a hard to see anchor on the left side of a block.

Stick clip the first bolt and start with your left hand in the obvious 3 finger pocket.  The route initially moves right toward the start of Crankenstein but doesn't share holds.  The upper half of the route moves to the left.

Tough to get off the ground and onto the wall, then an interesting and reachy boulder problem up to, around and over the low roof. Above, easier face climbing on better holds up to the anchor.

The start is interesting climbing over a bulge (crux).  The top has fun stemming moves in the dihedral. This is a good warm-up for crankenstein wall.

difficult start with no feet and hands reached high on slopers.  Couple of good moves to a very tiny undercling which leads to jugs below a bulge.  The bulge is tough to onsight but holds are plentiful if you look hard enough.

typically hardmen and women frequent this area.

Description

Protection

Routes in Crankenstein