This route involves a bouldery start through sloping edges that will bring the pump early.  Stickclip highly recommended.  After a series of spicy clipping stances you reach a ledge for a break.  Notice the fossilized bamboo stick on the rock next to you!  Take a break before climbing sustained slopy edges and pockets all the way to the top.  Crux moves occur at bolt 5, and don't expect a break at the end!

The Dude Abides will surprise those dependent upon the 3rd edition RRG guidebook - the rating of 5.11a is usually discredited.  To those who believe in the 5.11a rating, "obviously, you're not a golfer."

The Dude Abides

I'll Take Sue

Mixed Emotions

Rinse and Repeat

Good Wood Solid Spank

Chucklehead

That's What She Said

Good Gravy

Cold Hard Bitch

Flying The Bird

Old English

Raindancer

Brolo El Cunado

Size Doesn't Matter

Fresh off the Bone

Bessie

Pocahontas Path

Hellava Caucasian

Baby Blue Eyes

Lets get drunk and think about it

Colt 45

Motor Booty Pimp Affair

Cheaper Than a Movie

Tiger Lily

My Way or The Highway

The Friend Zone

Hot Drama Teacher

The Spice of Life

Laying Pipe under the Bridge

When Rats Attack

King Cobra

Be My Yoko Ono

She Might be a Liar

You Take Sally

Ridin' the Short Buzz

Brown Eyed Girl

Tight Lipped 2

Mary Pop-Parazzi

Hard start for shorter folks to a simple dihedral

Difficult to onsight. Climb up to the hueco, and then crux out of it. Make the most of your smears.

Edge up a flake to the roof crack right of the bolt. Pull over to a comfortable finger crack above.

Unlock the beta to pull through the technical and challenging boulder problem, to find fun, reachy slab climbing on funky, cool holds. After pulling up over the ledge, find a few more feet of steeper climbing on bomber golden rock to the anchor.

Shaded in the summer, sun afternoon in winter.

Follow the bolts up the easier technical slab. A good warm up for the 11s on this section of wall.

I thought this was a fun climb, but a bit stiffer than the guide book's rating of 10b. The moves to the first bolt are fun and lead to a crux between the second and third bolt. This route didn't seem to get a lot of traffic and the route was covered in a lot of lichen and spider webs, but with traffic should be a lot more enjoyable.

3 stacked boulder problems with 3 different styles. Great for the endurance challenged boulderer. Bring your crimping A game for the low crux.

Slabby climbing, make sure your manteling is up to par.

Move up ledgy rock for the first few bolts to reach the huge flake feature. Lay-back the very overhung flake feature on huge jugs to the chains.

A tricky no feet start leads to a heavily pocketed face and easier climbing above.  Short route and a good warm-up.

Start on some side-pulls then it eases up with jugs and pockets. Fun!

Tough to onsight. Holds are very thin, use your best technical slab here.

This is a good long sport pitch.  This route is a little different in character than its neighbors.  The climbing is more technical and more powerful and much of the rock tends to be a less positive.  Good route with a tricky crux.

Cruxy start, cruxy roof, good rests. Dyno over the roof and mantle up.

Similar to its neighbor, "Brown Eyed Girl", this route climbs the less than vertical slab using a series of edges and horizontals.  Just a little less featured.  Pretty good route.

This routes shares a start with Old English (10c) but branches right after the first bolt. Climb to a cramped sit-down ledge and rest up before taking on the overhanging pocketed wall above. Keep it together going to the anchors on a deceptive crimp and pocket crux.

Adventure climb to the fullest! This route has a touch of everything you normally don't get in the red. Slabby start lower quality rock, gives way to bulges, crimps, low angle stemming and a brief lie back. Take in all 95' of this engaging climb. Crux section lets you choose to pull crimps on a bulge or stem up a sandy low angle gully. A 60M will get you down, but TIE A KNOT if lowering.

The route ascends a long, right-facing dihedral towards the center of the wall.  Climb up through a section of broken cracks to gain a cleaner, tight-hands crack in a corner.  Follow the corner as it continues up and starts to arch to the right.  When the corner ends, make a few moves on the slabby face to the two bolt anchor just below the top of the cliff.

The guidebook says that a single 60m rope is enough to lower off this route.  It will be really close!  It might be wise to use a 70m just to be safe.

Creep up the low angle slab until you can grab the flake above the second bolt and pull up to the finish

Follow bolts through a series of bulges with a nice slab guarding the anchors.

Offwidth with plenty of face holds. It sucks when you first realize you are in the friend zone, but once you're OK with it, it is a lot of fun!

Enjoy the nice technical 5.10c/d start working your way to the crux. Thank the gods for the amazing bolt before you work over this Hot Drama Teacher's sweet hump. (Super safe fall on this 5.11 crux!) Power your way past her curves to enjoy a nice ledge to shake out and relax before you caress your way up to the 5.9+ finish to enjoy a nice little 5.9+ crux right before the anchors!

From redriverclimbing.com:

"This route begins as a wide crack just right of Pocahontas. Climb the outside face of the wide crack, protecting out of a pocket, to a ledge. Head out the roof to another ledge with chain anchors."

Climb the hand crack in the corner to the right of the pipe. The first 25 feet are a nice crack with no face holds. From here I went through the arch and finished by sitting on top of the arch, but I may have used the pipe to ascend part of that section.

My belayer belayed from the ledge with the tree at the base of the crack. I think it's safer that way.

The guide book says 70ft, but its 35ft tops.

The climbing isn't bad, but it's short. The little bit of added adventure/ not straight forward cragging made it more fun for me.

Bolted line that climbs up an arete through a couple bulges.

Move up on a few easy ledges to a rest before the overhanging wall above. Move out and climb pockets to the chains.

A bouldery start on pockets gets you up to the crack/corner system. Lots of big plate holds everywhere as you follow the crack up to a left-facing corner below a small roof. Roll out right around the roof on good holds and continue along the crack system to a big ledge and bolted anchors.

Move through continuous slab movement up the first few bolts to harder moves getting into the smooth buttcrack. Balance your way through and on to easier terrain to the anchors.

Find the hueco about 45' right of Baby Blue Eyes. This is the left line of bolts ascending the face. Technical slab at it's best, and the hardest line at the wall.

This route is the best warm up around.  Start on smaller holds and reach to better jugs as you go up.  Interesting movements, and the holds only get larger as you climb.  Well protected.

Climbs a less than vertical slab via a series of edges and horizontals.  Good warm-up route.

Angle up left to the first bolt then through decent climbing and a crux at 3rd bolt. Vertical.

Short bolted line, easy lead for teaching.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Chica Bonita Wall