This is a classic Vedauwoo OW.  The crux is in the first 20 feet where the crack does a dogleg to the left and overhangs a bit.

Crack to Nowhere

New Shoes

The Gargoyle

Gut Bomb

Sarah Palin's Drill

Crackpod

Meat Milkshake

Barbed Wire

Tunnel Vision

Day of Wrath

Formicae

The Panhandle

Lois

Climb the left-leaning, 5.6 offwidth to the right of the Old Bolted Routes and inside the slot formed by the slab and a big boulder. The offwidth transforms to a thin, right-leaning crack that ends near the 1st bolt. Make a delicate traverse leftwards to the 2nd bolt. Climb up past it  (crux) aiming for the obvious corbel. From there its easy climbing to the top.

See

The Palin Wall.

for

Tunnel Vision

.

This is a body length offset tight hands splitter.  Over the lip it turns into great hands, but it is suprisingly hard pulling over.  Start on the one good hand at the back of the roof.  Once over the lip, you can step off, or if you really want you can top out the boulder which gets really crumbly and licheny at the top.  It was named because John had just gotten a new pair of shoes, and he tested them out on the FA of this problem.

While this thing is pretty steep and looks like it might be hard, the slab to the side makes it much easier than it appears.  The crux is the exit.

Starts in the same place as Meat Milkshake, but moves up and left on good rock, using some of the coolest holds on any boulder in Vedauwoo.

The route starts about 10 feet to the right of

Sarah Palins Drill

. Climb an easy, left-leaning slot. The climbing suddenly becomes harder as the slot bends right and the climbing changes to underclings. Follow the crack to a small gully and then up an easy slab (1 bolt) to the top.

See

The Palin Wall.

for

Tunnel Vision

.

Ben Boykin and I climbed this route in 2011. It's probably been climbed earlier.

Fun, albeit low, moves on really nice rock.

Climb the nice, but short, handcrack formed by the blade. The angle then eases and the crack widens. Follow it to a chimney. Slither along the bottom of the chimney, as if crawling under barbed wire, to the easy-looking vertical exit crack (crux), which is size-dependent. The bigger you are the harder it will be.

At the left end of the SE facing slab is a 5-foot wide slot with a hand to wider crack on its right wall. Climb the crack. Ben Boykin and I climbed this route in 2011. It's probably been climbed at an earlier time.

On the left (SW) wall of the hallway is a large, arching crack, which at its top is intersected by a vertical exit crack. Climb the arching crack starting at the left (SE) end of the wall exiting through the vertical crack near the top of the arch.

This is on the lower Northeast Slab. It has a bouldery start, per-move bolt clips. It is quite thin. The name is Latin for "ants," which abundantly populate this slab. The bolts were installed without prior knowledge of previous ascents, in late July, 2011. The bolted version was first lead 8/5/11.

See

Day of Wrath

. Climb the arching crack starting at the right (NW) end of the wall exiting through the vertical crack near the top of the arch.

This is a very unique problem for Vedauwoo as it is compression climbing out a roof using big positive slopers.  This problem is distinct, because it is basically a huge cobble stuck to a roof, and as a result most of the rock on the problem is really fine grained.  Start on an undercling feature and slap out the roof, heading out right to exit up the tall easy slab.  The start of this problem is low to the ground and as a result you need to keep your feet on.  It was named after a bit of graffiti on a nearby rock.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Upper Devil's Playground