Walk past the huge, south facing

Hideaway Chimney

(5.5) heading to the right.  The first crack as you head around the corner is Flake, and it starts in a bit of a chimney.  You start in a crack on the left and then 25 feet up you  move to a crack on the right and continue to the top.

This is a standard, awkward Vedauwoo crack that is interesting and sustained.  Grind up the semi-chimney, move into a big crack, then move from this crack to your right into another crack.  The crux is moving from the left crack into the right.

The top moves push you out onto the face, which I found got my attention immediately. I also found a 00 TCU helpful at the top.  "One of the best pitches of 5.8 at Vedauwoo",

Heel and Toe

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Flake

Sorority Girl

Hideaway Chimney

It's OK to Be Humbled

About a third of the way into the crag (from the right) is this large and distinctive crack.  From the ground, it looks like it has an offwidth crux, but in reality the crack opens up inside to allow the passage of all but the most oversized.  Juggy, but with good jams too.

This right-facing dihedral is about 100 feet right of the route

Flake

. Scramble up onto a flat ledge at the base of the crack.

A slabby start leads to steeper (than you think!) climbing above. The rock quality is sound, with awkward and strenuous moves.

Descent: walk off to the right along the "fin" of rock, then scramble to the ground....

This route is worth doing if you're in the area and looking for something short to finish the day.

Start on thin chossy climbing to good jams. Jam out crack and do the exciting moves to mantle onto a small ledge. Follow crack/rail right to a large ledge (5.11a). It is probably good to plug a belay here, but it could be linked.

P2. Follow a set of cracks on interesting mixed face and crack climbing (5.10a).

Description

Protection

Routes in Holy Saturday