An older route that was originally put up solo with some aid but never free climbed. It has recently been revisited, cleaned up a bit more and freed. Two more lead bolts were added after the free ascent to facilitate a better (and safer) flow.

Start up on the higher shelf/ground and climb into a short chossy dihedral, then up onto the easy face with more chossy rock. Move up and work your way left under a small roof by a semi-loose flake (it moves but won't come off easily). From here traverse left past gear under the roof to gain the left diagonaling dihedral with 4 bolts. The rock up here is good and the climbing is funky. It gets gradually harder as you go, crescendoing  at the last bolt -- a bouldery move to gain jugs below the anchor. Lower from anchor at the lip of the roof.

Procrastination

Wet Willy

Nubs

Bear hug

Throw gear here

Where There's a Willy (There's a Way)

Willy Wonky

Start at a hanging block feature just left of a low roof. Crank up past a large stopper slot and a #4 camalot (an old one fit's best). From here, a big move gains good holds before moving a bit left, following the crack/seams to the top and a 2 bolt anchor.

A very short but fun 3 bolt line on bullet hard rock. Climb the steep wall past 3 bolts to an anchor. Second bolt can be clipped from below with a big reach, or from a higher crimp just to the right of bolt. It is high because the moves above are sustained for a bit.

This is a fun hard line (for me) that starts off a bit grungy but finishes up an excellent steep dihedral on bomber quartzite. With closely spaced bolts it is safe and worth a go for the grade.

Start slightly left of the arete 20 feet up. Move up the easy/chossy face past some gear and towards the arete. Climb it past 2 bolts (10ish) to a ledge below the steep dihedral. Note: One could climb the face to the left also, but the arete is cool. Move up a few feet to get a #1 tcu that protects the move to the 3-bolt line above. Some powerful climbing on small holds gets you to better holds and a surprisingly pumpy finish. Lower from anchor at the top.

Fairly easy trad route up easy face climb into a corner then to the top

The last of the three Willy routes to be done, but perhaps the best of the bunch. Originally attempted by a friend years ago but a sketchy fall and ensuing darkness nixed the finish. It has since had some loose rock removed and 2 bolts placed.

Start on Wet Willy but move right down low (reach around and clip a bolt). Crux moves get you under the roof and a horn shaped jug at the lip. Make another cruxy move past the other bolt and continue up the wall on good horizontals and finger to hand sized gear. Lower/rap from the shared anchor.

Just left of Wet Willy is a seam with a bouldery crux down low. It's similar to its nextdoor neighbor just a bit harder.

Climb up to the seam/crack in the bulge and get small cams for gear (the crux piece is a #1 TCU size). There are two ways to climb the crux: To the right or to the left. If climbing right, the fixed stopper is necessary, as it would be very difficult to place blindly. If climbing left, the moves are more straightforward but maybe just as hard(?). Above the fixed stopper is a bolt. Continue up the wall past good horizontals to a 2 bolt anchor.

Note: This is a fresh route on what was a very dirty wall. It is relatively clean now but could use some traffic to clean it up more. The upper part in particular.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Conley Cove