This is an evil, evil climb. I think it should be re-named "Three moves to Hell". The holds are small, the moves are big, and the crux demands a very particular body position. The crux is also the throw to the last hold, so with each try you have to do two big pulls just to get there.

An excellent and devious climb to be sure.

Big Deal

The Trojan Arete

Old Soft Hsu

Arete of Troy

Steve's Traverse

Big Traffic

Easy traverse

Troy Lite

Edges Of Doom

The Devils

Heavy Traffic

Linkup of Heavy Traffic and Big Deal.

Start as for Heavy Traffic and move up to the second, bigger hole. Traverse right on edges into the Big Deal finish. Top out on cool slopers. Excellent!

Hard moves right from the get-go. Power your way up the proud arête that overhangs the road by 8 feet. Most mortals will take advantage of the single bolt anchor up top for top-roping. Whether you TR or highball, plan on using some traffic control and avoid trying this during rush hour.

Start with a good right sidepull and left hand undercling. Up on edges to committing, heady top out.

The prominent north arete of the Trojan Boulder forms the rightmost boundary of the "Traffic Wall." This problem climbs the left side of the arete on good edges.

Start low on big flat edge, then perform a series of hard, sustained, and aesthetic moves out right. Stay on the lower holds. Travel through the big pocket that marks the beginning of Heavy Traffic, then finish on Big Deal (V5).

Feels kinda like an eliminate, but climbs super clean. A must do.

Start of Old Soft Hsu and traverse right all the way around the Troy Arete and into and up the rounded dihedral. I don't know if there is a proper name for this route, but it's a great way for those of us who like to stay close to the ground to play on the Trojan Boulder.

Start on the prow of the arete and move right toward the top on big holds. Quite easy, quite fun!

Starts to the left of heavy traffic and follows a series of crimps to join heavy traffic at the jug.

A head's-up problem on good rock. For some reason, the holds remind me of the holds on Blitzkrieg. Anyways, start with hands on small stuff, head up and right. Top-out is on the insecure side and a bit funky, so get good spotters.

Follow the striking line of pockets and holes up and left.

I start with my right hand in a good pocket and left on a higher positive edge. Other options exist, including a lower start. Climb through the two big holes and then stay focused on the crux top out.

There's a direct start on crimps to the left, V4.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Trojan Boulder