Slab climbing with the crux move over small bulge on third pitch, with some runouts.

The Acolyte

Tootsie

Walk the Line

Too Old To Be Bold

ThunderBelly

Yeti Luge

Top Gun

unnamed 5.9

Bandito

Fly like an eagle

El Grande

Sickness

Constellation

Sweet Liberty

Harmonic Roof

Kite Spider

Belleza Natural

Obsidian Night

Not Advertised

South Chimney

Named after the 1980s movie.

Pitch 1 (5.7, 30m): climb any of the three cracks up the pillar

Pitch 2 (5.8, 35 m): 6 bolts. Head up right, keeping the moss on your left.

Pitch 3 (5.7, 30 m): 3 bolts. Head right passing three bolts and crossing the seam. Run out to the anchor. Rap here or join the Acolyte

A short, slabby multi-pitch route featuring friction with a smattering of knobs. Mostly generously bolted.

P1

. The majority of the harder moves are contained between the ground and the third bolt. After the third bolt, knobs begin to appear more frequently. Friction up from knob to knob to bolted anchors.

P2.

More of the same, but easier. 8 bolts to bolted anchors.

P3.

From the 2nd pitch anchors, make your last 5th class move by scrambling over the ledge onto 4th class territory. There is one bolt about 15 feet up from the ledge to protect the rest of your scramble to the final anchors.

Theoretically, you could combine the first two pitches with a 70 meter rope. Also theoretically, you could wrap back down on a 70. We opted for a hike off the top, since I had just chopped about 10 feet off my rope.

Well bolted high-quality rock super fun route.

This is a great climb up the slab left of Top Gun.  The upper portion climbs nice orange rock littered with knobs.  Classic Shuteye Rock!

Start climb from ledge and clip two bolts on hard slab.  The third/4th bolt involves micro edging/slab to stand on top of sloping knob.  It is not over until you move off of the knob and gain easier ground on big holds (2 more bolts).  Place 0.75"cam in flake (upward facing) and move up slab just left of right facing corner to small incipient crack.  Get as high as you can and look for bomber nut placements (hard to find the slot).  Add a long runner and move out left on very exposed slab clip a bolt and move left and up to another bolt.  Once you have the second bolt clipped you can down climb and unclip bolt on traverse for your second.  Continue climbing up amazing rock past 4 bolts and climb easy but runout to anchor.  Rap anchor with two 70 m ropes.  This crux is very temperature dependent.  It will feel harder when it is hot.  The climb is named after "Famous" wall climber Josh Mucci who was in the hospital that weekend with a busted belly from eating too much nuts on the wall!

11a, 10 bolts all 3/8" to 2 bolt anchor shared with 1st pitch of Top Gun.

Difficult, sustained and technical face climbing leads to a ledge. There is a distinct crux.

This is followed by cruiser 5.10 climbing.

Great route with a classic yosemite crack/corner on the first pitch.  Need all crack skills on first pitch and slab skills up high (pitch 4).

Pitch 1. The start of this route is the same start at south chimney route.  Start up easy unprotected slab and clip a bolt about 50' up that protects move into the crack system.  Climb the corner/dihedral crack up to where it gets wider and steeper and make chimney moves until you can lieback corner.  Great pro.  As the corner becomes more shallow step out left.  Do not continue up to the top.  As you step out left there is a wide crack on the face.  Continue to move up and left to bolted anchor.  If you go to high in the crack and become even with the anchor there is a hard slab move left.  The best way is to move out left lower and follow incipient crack up and left (better for follower too).  Runner your gear well or you will have massive rope drag right before the anchor.  5.9, 60 m, 1 bolt.  Rap to ground with 2 x 60 m ropes.

Pitch 2.  Interesting pitch that shares pitch with South Chimney.  Climb up and left to undercling and place gear (1") then clip three bolts moving left on features.  All bolts replaced with ASCA. Stop at anchor with chain.  You can rap straight down to the left with 1 x 70m which is easier than trying to rap right with 2 ropes.  For South Chimney continue past 2 more bolts left.   3 bolts, 10a .

Pitch 3. Head up and right in arching right facing corner/crack.  It is a little dirty but this is a fun pitch. Continue up corner until blocky ledge and build belay anchor with gear to 3" .  5.8, 30 m

Pitch 4.  Traverse right from belay past 3 bolts and fixed pin heading towards water streak.  Continue clipping bolts through bulge and follow water groove to two bolt anchor. Rap from here with 2x 70 m ropes and follow rap for "Sweet Liberty".  Or continue to the top with easy 5.6 pitch.  9 bolts, fixed pin, 10b, 60m

Pitch 5. Follow groove trending right until crack and climb crack with gear until the top and walk off climbers right.

Slabs , exiting climbing, my first climb in Shuteye ridge

Start up the easy slab, clip the homemade bolt then head up onto the golden arete. Big moves and sustained climbing get you to the first set of chains (5.12a). Harder for the vertically impaired. A second pitch leads to the top of the dome, or climb it all in one mega pitch!

Crux is flying like an eagle to a horn. Sustained 12a throughout

El Grande Wall is the far left area on the dome, El Grande starts with a undercling to first bolt to a short crack climb over bulge to big ledge up to mid-way anchors climb up water streak to amazing pockets to top of dome, with one rope rap to mid-way anchors, super fun route!!!

first 11 bolts are easy 10a/b. then you get to the 13 section where the crimps are sharp and the feet are sparse.

A highly enjoyable excursion up the right side of the El grande wall. Climbs the steepest part of Chiquito Dome.

P1 - 30 meters - 5.11a- Start on the slab and launch up onto the technical face. Pull the crux and continue with sustained  knob pulling.

P2 - 25 meters - 5.11a - Move off the anchors through 3 tightly bolted moves (2nd crux). Pull over the bulge to easier climbing above.

P3 - 25 meters - 5.10b/c - Climb up a seemingly endless system of knobs

P4 - 20 meters - 5.9 - easy slab to the last bolted anchors

P5 - (optional) easy 5th to the summit

Pitches could be linked if desired.

Rap from the top of P4 or walk-off the top. Single 70 meter rope is fine for the raps.

I think this is the best mixed climb on Chiquito put up in great style, many different moves.

Pitch 1. Climb up unprotected slab passing pro opportunities (loose flakes) until you can get a good nut in the bottom of the right facing flake (hollow).  Continue up the "fractured" flake placing gear and trying not to rip off the flake.  As the flake gets wider gear is more solid (3" to 3.5").  The flake arches right to undercling where one needs to pull over flake to slab.  Continue up slab clipping two 3/8" bolts to ledge with anchor (Replaced with ASCA rappel rings).   Rap with 70 m rope to the ground    5.8  (2 bolts)

Pitch 2. Mental Crux pitch.  Go up 15 ' and clip a bolt (3/8") and then make crux traverse up and right to small left facing flake.  The crux is at the end of the traverse trying to get to corner.  Once at the corner you can place pro (0.75") and continue on slab up and right clipping 6 bolts on runout slab.  The bolts are in good spots and the climbing in between is not that hard.  15' below the anchors the wall steepens.  Move through the steep section clipping a bolt and solve the crux moves to the anchors on knobs.  Awesome pitch.  5.10b 7 bolts some gear. (30 m)  From the top of the second pitch you can rap (rappel setup) to the first pitch of "Sweet Liberty" or the first pitch of "Too Old to be bold" with a 70 m rope.  Some 1/4" bolts have been replaced but there are a few that remain.

Pitch 3.  Head up and left on slab passing 5 bolts, some 1/4" bolts (solid) and 3/8" bolts on runout slab.  As you approach the anchors the climb steepens.  Belay at two bolt rappel anchor.  Can rap to the ground from here with 2 x 70 m ropes.  (35 m)   10a, 5 bolts

Pitch 4. Climb up from the anchor through broken rock and roofs placing gear heading towards a water streak that is protected by 3 good bolts (3/8").  Most rap here with 2 x 70 m.  I thought this pitch was as heads up as the traverse on pitch two.  It is insecure slab climbing up a water streak.  10a, 3 bolts (45 m)

Pitch 5. Climb up easy runout face with some gear and 1 bolt.  5.6, 60 m.  You can walk off to climbers right down gully.

11 technical climbing to a cutting left foot that for me was the crux. rest of the route felt low 12/high 11. Throwing over the roof is the nuts.

A wandering slab route. Starts on the far right side of the playground wall. There is a 5.11a variation that busts out right near the top of the climb

up the approach crack then first bolt left. Outstanding sustained 11 climbing for 150 feet. Cant ask for much more in life.

Rest of the climb looks like a walk up a ramp then a way to get to the top.

Climb the Approach Route 5.7, clipping 2 or 3 bolts on the slab; look right before you get to the Approach Route anchor and you will see another bolt, clip this and down climb into the maw, stem across and clip the first bolt on the steep face, then reach back and unclip the bolt on the other side of the chimney to reduce drag. Continue up the steep face on pockets and edges to the anchors.

If using one rope, rap to midway anchors on El Grande.

Route is fairly sustained and difficult by shuteye standards for 10b. Probably is 10b, but no easier than many 11a routes at shuteye.

An enjoyable moderate excursion up the right side slabs of Chiquito Dome. A combination of well protected climbing and comfortable belay stances make this an excellent route for the neophyte multi-pitch leader.

P1 - Locate the first bolt and launch up the slab. This is the crux pitch, but difficulties are short, and the climbing is well protected. Veer right to the belay. 5.8

P2 - Head up right to the arete by-passing the roof. A long pitch. 5.8

P3 - Climb a short 5.7 crack

P4 -Climb up an easy slab. Optional - Rap from the end of this with 2 x 60 meter ropes

P5 - 3rd/4th class slab to the top of the dome. Gear belay. Walk off

An interesting and old school adventure romp up to the summit of Chiquito Dome.

P1 - 5.9 - Start in the big obvious off-width chimney thing. Grovel through the crux to an easier hand crack above. Traverse over to a bolted anchor - 60+ meters.

P2 - 5.10a - Traverse out on an undercling, clip a dubious 1/4", 30 year old bolt and head out onto crux friction moves. Clip a second bolt, then make your way to an intermediate anchor. Clip the anchor down climb and traverse over the arete. 2 more, new and shiny SS bolts lead you up to a ledge with some bushes. 25 meters Gear belay

P3- P5- easy 5th - 5.7 climb the easy slab until you head into the giant chimney system. Here the climb becomes part caving expedition as you make your way up the dark deep chimney. Continue up easier terrain to the top of the dome.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Chiquito Dome