This route climbs a featured, well protected chimney.

Ginger the Oppressor

All Your Mite

Mouse of the Future

Pearl Pureheart

Nice Surprises

Scrappy Mouse

Cat Alarm

Chimneying 101

Oil Can Harry

Y Crack

Heckle & Jeckle

Mind the Gap

Frankenstein's Cat

Elysium

Gehenna

Know Your Enemy

Quacula

Magna Mater Spire

Sangria Headache

This route shares its start with

Ginger the Oppressor

and then moves left following a flared, varied crack system on the arete.

Pitch 1:  Start with easy hands and face which turns into cruxy face.  Continue up the varied, overhung crack to a large ledge and belay.

Pitch 2:  Traverse up and left to a 5.8 hand crack that goes to the rim.

This is a great route that begins in a flared, bolt protected chimney.  Chimney up to a good red C3 placement in a right-trending seam.  Continue chimneying and pass 2 bolts.  After the 2nd bolt, move right onto the face and clip a bolt.  Chimney, stem, and face climb up to a thin splitter passing another bolt.  Plug in some tiny cams, and fire the slabby headwall passing another bolt.

This route climbs an easy chimney feature with great gear.  The crux comes right before the chains with an awkward mantle.

Pitch 1:  Make easy chimney moves off the ground and find a hidden #2 Camalot placement in the back of the chimney ~12 feet off the ground.  Chimney and stem up into a large pod with a handcrack on the right side of a roof.  Jam the roof and pull up to a nice flake on the left side of the chimney. Climb the hand/finger crack above to a large ledge and belay from gear (90 feet, 5.8).

Pitch 2:  Choose your own adventure in twin cracks.  The left crack is wide and a bit dirty, the right crack is fingers (recommended) with good stemming.  Belay from boulders (40 feet, 5.9).

There is some crumbly rock on this route but the climbing is varied and fun at the grade.

This is a fun, mixed route that climbs an interesting corner mostly via stemming and compression.  There are delicate crux moves just past the 2nd bolt.

Begin up a featured face past 3 bolts to gain a thin, flared crack system.  Follow thin cracks with good gear and engaging stemming up to a tooth-like feature.  From the tooth, move up and left to clip the the final bolt of

Frankenstein's Cat

, and finish in a finger crack that leads to the chains.

There is still a bit of flaky stuff coming off of this one, but it will clean up with more ascents.

Climb a perfect hand crack for 15' in a flared corner.  Continue up with a couple of offwidth/stemming moves to the chimney.  Climb the chimney and protect in a crack on the right wall to a roof.  Pass the roof (#3 Camalot) to some more easy chimneying and top out to the left on easy terrain.

Oil Can Harry is a variation of

Quacula

.  Climb

Quacula

up to the tooth/roof feature on the left.  Pull onto the tooth and continue left into the next crack system.  Make some fun wide stems up to clip a bolt and pull onto the arete (exciting).  Traverse left and up to find the chains.

Make easy moves past a couple of flakes in a right-facing corner to a finger crack.  Climb a short section of fingers up to a triangle-shaped roof that is hands.  Go up and over the roof to gain a nice finger crack that continues up until the crack splits.  Make delicate moves following the right-trending split via tips, thin fingers and nice pods into the chimney and a two bolt anchor.  With more traffic, this will be a great route.  A fun TR variation traverses right under the roof and continues up the chimney via wide stemming.

This route ascends double cracks with a lot of hand jamming and good climbing.  Save a small nut for the cruxy top section.

I cleaned copious amounts of bushes and dirt from this one, but it's still a bit dirty.  It should clean up with more ascents.

There is another manky pitch of 5.6 that goes to the rim.

Climb the thin crack on the left wall of the chimney that trends deeper into the chimney (watch out for a pile of guano in a jug).  When the chimney narrows to an offwidth/squeeze, traverse back out and grunt up through the squeeze chimney (crux, protects with #6 Camalot).  Continue grunting up the squeeze to easier terrain, climb over a huge chockstone and continue up a short finger crack to a 2 bolt anchor on the right.  Shares anchors with Know Your Enemy.

This route begins with juggy face climbing up to the 2nd bolt and then turns into sustained stemming, compression, and tension moves to the 7th bolt.  Climb above the 7th bolt using a good pinch and transfer to the right over a bulge into a finger crack that leads to the chains.

This is an excellent pitch.

Climb big hands through a steep bulge (crux) to a good stance.  Continue up via 5.8 offwidth (#4 Camalot) into the chimney.  Climb hands in twin cracks in the back of the chimney until the cracks disappear.  Make a couple of easy chimney moves to gain another crack on the right wall of the chimney that continues to the top.

Climb the first 15' of

Elysium

(crux) and traverse right 4' to the next crack around a small bulge (traverse protects with #4 Camalot and long sling).  Continue up a shallow low angle crack to a flaring offwidth (5.9) followed by a nice 5.8 hand crack.  Finish on the last 20' of

Elysium

.  The lichen on this route detracts from the overall quality but with more ascents the route will improve.

Start with hands off the ground and move past an offwidth pod to a good hand jam.  Pull up to into the flaring, steep offwidth.  Continue up the strenuous offwidth (crux) to a ledge.  From the ledge climb fingers and hands on the right wall of a left facing corner to the anchors.  Great stone and fun moves.

Begin with good stemming off the ground between opposing features.  Plug in a small cam, and set sail up the right-facing corner with lots of hand jams and stems.  Climb up to a hands free stance at the bottom of a chimney, and continue up the chimney via great stems and compression passing a bolt to find the chains.

Make a couple tricky boulder moves off the ground to a horizontal weakness (weakness protects with BD #0.4 Camalot) and move up and right to clip a bolt using a hidden undercling.  Climb past the bolt (crux) via a sidepull and stemming to easier terrain and a good stance.  Climb easy class 5 to the unique, small summit.

This short bouldery route is very fun and would be worthy of 3 stars if it were not for the sections of slightly crumbly rock.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Lower Mighty Mouse Wall