A mixed 5.12a for the 5.11+ sport climber with 5.10 trad skills. Start up Immaculate Deception for the first three or four bolts (the 5.12a? bit) to the obvious no hands rest. From here head left up the crack. A right jog towards the top is a bit awkward.

Budda Slept

Triple Sec aka Fifty Bucks

First Fall

Immaculate Deception

Conquistador of the Crumbly

Hoosier Boys

Dirty Old Men

Peace Frog

Cruxifixion

Blue Collar

Name Dropper

Prometheus Unbound

Perfidious Deciduous

Hot Gossip

Jesus Wept

Cherry Red

Blue Sunday

Atlas Shrugged

Beautiful blank yellow and black face with small pockets and a few visible crimps. Climb through three distinct cruxes, the first being powerful and bouldery on pockets. A nice no hands rest follows the first crux. Tricky and pumpy crux up top. Have fun clipping the anchors.

A super cool crack deserving of all it's stars... At the right end of the Sanctuary as you hike the Trail you pass the tall and sweet looking arete of Imaculate deception 5.12a go around the corner and you will see this sweet line...

Climb up a corner to a stance... Protect and make moves out left in to a finger crack... Climb the widening crack to a relaxing no hands stance then finish on steep hands in a corner to a cruxy finish mantel...

You get a great veiw of the valley from the anchors...

Unique route to the right of Triple Sec a.k.a. Fifty Bucks. Bouldery start leads to fun and unique climbing on an arete, and then finishes out with the classic RRG jug haul

Tough start to high first bolt.  Another bolt protects a short traverse to the curving finger/hand/fist crack.

Powerful climbing on small pockets and crimps. When the wall becomes less steep, the holds shrink, keeping difficulty consistent. Extremely sustained. Rock somewhat suspect, but traffic should clear that up.

In the shady corner left of First Fall 5.9 you will find a crack that goes between hands and off width (though no wide gear is needed). the bad news is that its dirty and it has a weird anchor situation. if it was clean and had a nice anchor it would be great fun.

Climb the crack which is funky and awkward but interesting to the ledge, then move 30ft left to a rap anchor.

An excellent power-endurance line, Peace Frog climbs a steep panel of juggy pockets split by good rests. This is the type of "jug-haul" the Red is famous for!

BETA ALERT:

Begin by scrambling up the easy ledge. If this route has a crux, its got to be clearing the roof at the start. Make a big reach out to the lip, work your feet, and begin the sprint. The angle relents at the fourth bolt, where another difficult section is encountered. A few bolts higher a big reach arrives at a large flake and one last shake. Head up and a bit right of the bolt line on sculpted pockets. Head back left at the last bolt (redpoint crux), where the wall steepens noticeably and make a few more pumpy moves to the top.

This is a good line that is marred by an oddly contrived start and mundane appearance.  To make matters worse, the route is hidden in the trees, hard to get to, and looks like no fun from the ground.  However, once you get to the second bolt or so, this route climbs a beautiful orange streak of incut edges & the occasional sinker pocket.

Stick clip the first bolt.  The route begins with a boulder problem that is supposed to be in the V6 range, but the only way to achieve that sort of difficulty is to ignore obvious large holds that are no more than one arm-length from the plumb line.  If the guidebook grade of 12d is important to you, ignore the obvious holds and climb mossy divots straight up.

The obvious sequence is to start a bit right, climb up to the horizontal crimp band, traverse left along the band to the flake, then up & back right.  From this point head straight up along the cool, featured streak to a no hands rest on the ledge.  For some reason the route doesn't end at this ledge.  Instead climb the pumpy overhanging wall above to the crappy, rope-twisting anchor.

The bolted line just left of First Fall (5.9).

Stick clip the first bolt then make a big burly move to a good pocket or and few REALLY hard thin moves if you can't reach. From the good pocket make easier moves on good holds until they run out. Micro crimp and tech your way up the face to gain more decent holds to the top.

A really nice piece of rock but unfortunately  its quite height dependent.

This route starts out like most pumpfests at the Red, but ends up throwing two short, bouldery cruxes at you right at the end.

Scramble onto a large shelf and walk left until you can mantle up to the start of the route.  The first 50 feet is typical Red climbing- edges, pockets, marginal rest.  Then you are faced with back-to-back single-move boulder problems separated by poor resting holds.

This is a nice route, unfortunately it is neither aesthetic, or on amazing rock.

Get tall through the start to reach high crimps and get into an undercling. Move up on pockets through the steep bit to get to where there are some horizontals. Rest in the horizontals before attacking the first pocket band with some thin moves on poor pockets. Good holds above allow a respite before the next band of pockets which are a bit bigger. Better holds above lead to the anchors.

Similar to but a little harder than Jesus Wept.

Locate the steep crack on the left side of the Sanctuary.  Finagle the early crux nice rest ledge. More traddy moves with some good face holds will lead you to the chain anchors.

A long move off a good sidepull chickenhead right off the ground is followed by two cool sequences involving heel hooks and a fat sloper. Pull through some pockets to reach huge jugs then trend slightly right to a good stance. Gain the slab and cruise to the top.

Starts at the right side of the big steep wall of huecos. Make a rising rightward traverse past a few bolts to gain some good holds as the route heads straight up. There is apparently a new direct start that does not change the grade though I have not done it. As you head straight up the holds thin until you have a series of moves on 2 and 3 finger pockets with poor feet ending at a horizontal below a small roof. Work around the roof to the right and up the face more easily to the anchor.

Climb the red section up the overhanging rock on thinning holds. Save some forearm juice for the finish.

Steep climb with ledges, aretes, and dihedrals up the middle of the Sanctuary. Finish on Peace Frog.

The semi direct start to

Jesus Wept

. Start in a dihedral with technical climbing to a right hand drive by dyno. Then finish on the upper three quarters of

Jesus Wept

. Personally i think this opening boulder is more interesting than the original. Although the rock quality isn't quite as good.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in The Sanctuary