Climb up 15 feet or so to the first bolt, it’s a good idea to stick-clip or have a spot, then begin a series of crimps to gain the second bolt. Move up and right through difficult moves then clip the third bolt from a mini-jug. Just past the third bolt is the crux; move through this section to clip bolt 4 (previously a fixed pin) and then clip the last bolt and mantle to the chains.

 One of the best routes anywhere!

Rap Bolters from Hell

Slime of the Century

Drop Dead

Made in the Shade

Papa Was a Rolling Stone

Baptists on the Rampage

Lost My Religion

The Dutchmen

Show Stopper

Thankful Arete

For A Rocker

Last Rites

Sugar Momma

Hand Crack

Blades of Steel

Unknown

Crack a Lo Lo

Fear of the Right

Fuson's Folly (aka Larry's Folly)

Slightly Lost

Steep Show

Come and Get Your Love

Corner

500 Roses

Gong Show

Sustained climbing and sometimes slick at the begining if it has been raining.  Apparently there is a small TCU placement up high on the route, but I've never seen it.  I've only toproped it, but it looked very well bolted.  This is one of my (and Tony Mayse's) favorite refuge climbs! 

  Seems almost like 2 distinct climbs.  Starts out with slopey liebacks and strenous (for me) underclings then goes to classic edging crimpers for the second half.

Route to the left of Slime of the Century. Climbs the slightly overhung and strenuous start to the crack above.

Although listed as a sport route I have to warn you there are only two bolts on the whole route although there are a few spots for small cams and tcu's if you look hard enough. The crux is a little bit obove the second bolt and then you run it out to the chains.

Start up the first 4 bolts of Come And Get Your Love (and past its crux), but instead of climbing past the last bolt (which could be clipped with a long runner) to the bolted anchor, traverse the 5.9 crack (#0.75 - #3 Camalots) left for about 30-40 feet then finish straight up when the crack ends. Gear anchor can be built using small cams (alien sizes). Hike off, or possibly walk around the boulder and rappel Come And Get Your Love

Great route with small roof section before getting onto the slab.  The crux is on the slabby friction climbing just after the roof.

Crux is after 2nd bolt.  Used to be a 5.11, but a key hold broke off and raised it a full grade.  This is one of THE CLASSIC lost dome climbs.

Climb up the the face right of Fusion's.  Run out moves up to a single bolt that protects the crux.

A strenuous overhanging crack climb located 5 feet to the left of steep show. Powerful moves from the start and continuing up a steep lieback crack, lead to face moves then upper crack of steep show.

You'll be feeling thankful if you finish this route without having to test any of the numerous questionable gear placements. Climb the fun arete on the left edge of the column with little gear until you can move right halfway up and climb over the blocks in the middle of the column. The arete offers fun exposure but this pitch is largely marred by the fact that there are little protection options and those that do exist are in fairly low quality or hollow sounding rock that isn't too inspiring.

The crux is definitely the start.  Its probably 5.10 face or 5.10 undercling / liebacks.  Really not bad, just boulder problemy.  Start about 8' right of the corner crack and move up left to gain the crack.  Have someone spot you.  You gain a great stance and can plug in 2 cams to start off the crack.

The route has two cruxes that stump most people (that I've climbed with).  First is getting onto the steeply sloping ramp just after starting the climb.  You basically have to slither yourself onto it until you grab a great hold, otherwise be spit off.  The second crux is the mantel move off the horn that forms a small roof (that is protected by slinging the horn).  Blow this mantel and find yourself falling backwards and knocking your head on the ramp below.  The rest of the climb is strait forward consisting of moderate crack climbing with some lay-back moves and a short chimney section to top out.  The route protects really well with the exception of the mantle move where you whish you could put a piece above you.

Located 15 feet to the right of baptists on a rampage. Climb up a corner just to the right of a short slab, making your way to a small roof with a loose chockstone. Climb up and over the roof and continue up a corner crack which leads to an offwidth size crack ending at the anchors for BOAR

Hand Crack is between Blades of Steel and Fear of the right.  You start from on top of a boulder into a beautiful hand crack that leads into a slopped chimney/cave.  You then come out of the cave and follow the dihedral up with some slab moves.  You must do a gear anchor at the top and can also turn it into two pitches by continuing from the anchor up another beautiful hand crack to chimney that leads to the top out.  You must then do a three foot leap of faith over a 50+ foot drop to rappel down Larry’s Folly.  Both pitches have a fair amount of choss so be careful.

Not so well protected sport route.  Bolts are good.  Thin moves that will require a little thinking.

climb up the easy 30ft to the shelf similar to Fusons Folly start and traverse right to the base of a crack. Climb another 30ft of a good hand size crack that grows a little wider in the middle then tapers back down before the top. At the top, traverse right over to the anchors atop crack a lolo.

 If anyone has info on who did the first ascent, or the name, please include.

A great combination of boulder problem (5.11 start) into a small alcove and then crack that fades away to face climbing near the top.  Boulder the start, lay back the crack using your fingers and place pro quickly.  Once high enough, clip the bolts and face climb on thin friction climbing as the route turns less steep.

Climb up past one bolt up into the dihedral above.

There is an old pin that was placed at the crux mantle move.  Try not to test it since it was placed circa 1980.  I've seen falls on it and it seems fine though.  After the mantle move it is easy climbing.  Make trad belay once you enter the alcove.  I believe it takes medium / small cams.  2nd pitch: climb out of alcove onto face or chimney up and out higher up.  Almost no pro on 2nd pitch, but you'd fall into the crack and not off the rock so its not really dangerous.  Finish on top of a boulder after coming out of the alcove at a two bolt anchor.

Stem up the scoop until you reach the large sloping ledge. From there, step up/left to gain the crack. Use the left facing crack, as well as horizontals on the left face for gear. Follow the left facing corner to the nice belay ledge at the top, 10ft right of Come And Get Your Love’s bolted anchor.Note: given the moderate grade and location, it’s very likely this route has been previously done. If you have original FA info, let me know and we can update it.

To the left of Drop Dead. Super good and pumpy crack. No anchors but plenty of places to scramble off.

Up the hill from the main assortment of routes.  Look for the east-facing bolted line.

The guide book says 5.6 but depending on the start thought it was harder than the Dihedral at Zoo wall.  The crux is the first couple moves.

Climb moderate terrain to the first bolt and then move up through a series of crimps and a couple underclings with technical footwork (crux) to reach the second bolt.  Move up to the alcove and rest, the final 35 feet of this climb is some of the best rock in the refuge.

This is a fun little adventure climb that meanders up through a sloping crack into a small chimney and across a horizontal crack.  It's got a little of everything.

Great sun, great routes. If you are looking for more difficult routes, this is the place to be.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Lost Dome Main Area