A more trad variation to Roaches on a Face. Darren K. led me up this some time ago, telling me that it had been done years ago but somebody and he needed to check the gear for his guide book.

Begin on the same bolted face as Roaches. When you reach the downward pointing flake/overlap, head left using a small crack for gear. If memory serves me right DK used small TCU's and even a brass nut. The roof was a quick a grunt and the upper face is mostly mellow. You have to be a bit creative with your gear on the upper face, but it didn't merit a PG rating.

One more variation to do on this beautiful wall.

Hotwired

Edge of the World

Neosymian Thugs

Edge-n-Scary

Blind Date

The Y Crack

Real McCoy

North Chimney

I.D. Claire

Vote for Your Mom

Roaches on a Face

No Way In Hell

DJW Memorial

First Kiss

Main Crack

Lucky Streak

Flakes

North Crack

Dipthong

Edge of Knight

I'm Not Lichen This

Captured For Rapture

Call it a Knight

Full Skuck

This is a great route that screams to all climbers entering

Rock Canyon

for the first time, "Come climb me!"  It is situated high up above the road and is a perfect crack that splits the

Ed and Terry Wall

.

The route eats up as much hand size gear as you have.  But be warned, you might need to get creative if you only have a standard trad rack and don't like to take long falls.  But really, how can you fall out?  The crack is that good!  (Okay, if your crack technique is weak, you could possibly fall out...)

"Main" crack sums it up.  Climb up the obvious crack through a roof and follow it as it curves left until it tops out at chains.

Descent: A 60 meter rope will reach the ground.  A 50 meter rope won't.  I was able to set up a toprope for my second using a 60 meter, but it just barely reaches.

An exciting lead on the best wall in

Rock Canyon

.

Climb up a bit to a bolt with a dark gray, painted hanger. Just before the bolt is a decent horn to sling if you choose.

Continue up past another bolt to the left edge of a large flake (

Flakes

climbs up the other side of this feature).

Climb up to and past a small roof that abuts the flake and then continue to the bottom right of the final roof. Up and over the roof to the first of three modern bolts. Continue on to the chains, trending left just a bit.

Fun moves on sloping edges and jugs up a steep quartzite block. Has an exciting dynamic move.

P1

(5.8, 50') Starts in a mungy slot/corner a few feet left of

Captured for Rapture

. This pitch requires some medium-sized pieces of gear. After you pull the slightly overhanging slot you kind of get on a little fingerish crack on the north side and that takes you to a tiny ledge with an anchor (one chain, one hanger).

P2

(5.11a, 60') Move over a fun roof (crux) and continue up the now moderate face staying really close to the arete.

A short sport climb on rough quartzite. Low-angled with large holds until just before the first bolt. After that it's fairly steep, but not vertical. A huge jug with no feet for clipping the first bolt (unless you're taller than 5'10"). Then large, positive edges for feet and hands to the anchors.

Heard this actually has a more original name. But here it is. Once you have done all the other mod's on this cliff, make sure you tick this one too. Actually pretty good climbing. One of those "...if it were only longer routes." Can chicken out right at the intersection but finish on the

Real McCoy

for a few more fun moments.

This is a really fun route, I am not sure why I am not giving it 3 stars... perhaps because I liked

Main Crack

so much.

It is 5.7, but the moves are tenuous in places, and it is exciting for a bolted route.

This climb starts about 30 feet up hill from the

Main Crack

and climbs the face following 4 bolts until you reach a left facing corner.  This corner (which turns into a crack as it approaches the two bolt anchor) takes small cams and nuts.

A line that follows a series of broken quartzite weaknesses, with a bit of offwidth and about ten feet of actual chimney.

At the north side (left) of

Ed and Terry

scramble east and up a bit and then scramble up some 4th class terrain to a ledge with a bush. This is probably the best belay spot, although you could certainly belay from lower down (before the 4th class scramble).

Continue up some easier 5th class terrain while bearing a bit left where the stemming is easier. Arrive at a section of offwidth crack, make a tenuous move or two to get established in the chimney outside of the offwidth, sit back and enjoy the view.

When finished lollygagging head up for the chain anchors, or continue to the top if walking off (a gear anchor will be necessary).

Climbs a pointed, tower-like structure that is north of the

Ed and Terry

main wall. Not a destination, but fun to do while up on

Ed and Terry

. Definitely sit on top of the tower and look around while you are there.

Start at the northwest corner of the structure and climb through three bolts to the anchor bolt at the top. Downclimb or lower ten feet on the south side to a platform and belay the second from there. (You could also do a normal, slingshot-style toprope from the single anchor bolt, but why spoil the experience?) After the second climbs up the route and then down to the platform downclimb 10 feet to the ground on the west side. (Or grab your draws and your light rack from the second and start climbing

DJW Memorial

).

A short, low-angle, bolted route whose main redeeming feature is that it provides a different way to get to the base of the

Ed and Terry

wall from the top of the

Red Slab

.

Mossy in a couple of spots, and positive edges the whole way.

The anchor is above a ledge on which you can traverse left to get to the base of

Ed and Terry

proper.

The bolts may be far apart but the potential to deck is quite low. Exciting moves to the lip of the overhang. Beautiful face climbing on immaculate quartzite. Gives you a proper lead head and a sense of accomplishment. Just commit and you'll see.

A fun trad route on a fun wall.

No Way in Hell

climbs a flake system up to and around the right side of the center roof on

Ed and Terry

. It then goes to the slot up and right of the roof, and finally climbs up a small, broken crack system to the anchors.

The start and end bits are easier than the rest, but the whole route has positive edges and good feet. There didn't seem to be a real crux; after the start the climbing was similar until right before the end.

DJW Memorial

follows the ridge north of the main

Ed and Terry Wall

starting from just south of a small tower.

Climb past 3 bolts up the west face next to an arete and then traverse south on easy ground to a small, flat area. Start up the ridge arete again, placing medium gear as needed. Arrive at a steeper part of the arete and climb past one bolt, supplemented with gear as needed. Transition onto the west face and traverse past one bolt and the anchor of

I'm Not Lichen This

. Arrive at another steep arete and transition to the east face and climb past two more bolts. Top out on top of

Ed and Terry

and belay the second. Walk off to the south or rap from one of the

Ed and Terry

anchors.

The climbing is mellow with large positive holds and only a few moves on rock that approaches vertical. (The start is a bit scary because of loose and hollow sounding rock.) This route has somewhat of an alpine feel to it.

DJW Memorial

is named after David Webb, an early Rock Canyon climber who was tragically killed in an automobile accident.

A short climb on rough quartzite, similar to its neighbor to the left, but slightly harder.

Low angled for the first 10 feet or so, then fairly steep to the anchors. Positive edges for hands and feet for the most part, although a couple of sidepulls are helpful.

A heady, exciting route that runs "across-the-grain" of the main

Ed and Terry

.

The line starts near the left side of the main wall and trends up and right crossing several other routes on the way to a position at the top of the wall that is directly above the start of

Main Crack

.

Start below the gray-colored bolt visible near the left side of the main wall, and trend generally up and right. Surmount a thin section above the third bolt and climb directly over the lump up whose right edge

Flakes

climbs.

Continue up and right, clipping a few of the bolts on

Call it a Knight

and eventually cross

Main Crack

.

Put in a cam (a #2 or a #3 Camalot will work) and continue (wait for it...) up and right past a final bolt not shared with any other route, and then to the chains.

With a 70m rope it is possible to lower to the base of

Main Crack

. With anything shorter, someone will have to follow the route. The route goes up and over about 130 feet or so (the top is about 40 feet right of the start), but the location to which you lower is higher than where you started.

A steep, exposed, thrilling, and wonderful natural line up the best-looking face in

Rock Canyon

. When big-name climbers come to

Rock Canyon

,

Flakes

always impresses.

The line follows the right side of two large flakes about twenty feet to the left

Main Crack

.

A start directly below the right side of the first flake is how most people climb it these now, but in the days of shorter ropes climbers started almost directly below

Main Crack

and traversed left.

The climbing is exciting: easy moves interspersed with somewhat harder moves on mostly solid holds, and the occasional creaky jug. The gear is obvious and solid.

When the edge of the top flake peters out, bear right and up to an obvious crack and the chains.

An exciting journey up the steep north facing prow of the wall. The route has excellent exposure and super sweet finger locks, but only for the final 40 feet or so.

Pleasant and sustained 5.7 crimps lead straight up the face to the third and final bolt of I'm Not Lichen This. Your first bit of protection is a couple of micro cams next to each other behind a large horizontal flake. Your second place for protection is in funky pockets/flakes (again, a couple small cams fit there).

This route could possibly warrant an R rating. Just uh... don't fall before you get that second piece in, or else you'll deck. Also, the gear is pretty small. Best to put a couple cams in at each point.

Pull a series of roof features connected by some of the best face moves in the canyon.

A short, enjoyable route using many positive edges for hands and feet.

Start on the ledge directly below the slabby face. Climb up solid, lichen-covered quartzite passing three bolts to chain anchors. Note thankfully that you're not climbing on the

The original hardware from

I'm Not Lichen This

, replaced Aug 4, 2008.   Quarter-inch wedge bolts and homemade aluminum hangers. One of the hangers broke so easily that I doubt any of these ever held a fall.

. Going up and over the slight bulge after the third bolt is a bit of fun.

Awkward balancy moves clear the first two overhangs and lead to more brilliant face climbing before joining up with Edge of Knight for the finish.

This is a long, bolted route straight up the main face of the

Ed and Terry Wall

. The climbing is straightforward on positive edges with the occasional sidepull and a pinch here and there. There are a couple of small bulges with tiny edges for feet that might make you question just what you are doing up 300 feet above the valley floor attached to a tiny little thread. Right before the last bolt there is a tiny roof/bulge that is kinda fun.

The crux for me was when the edges got smaller and the feet went off camber for a move or two. The psychological crux was looking up to the next bolt each time and thinking, Ive gotta go

that

far on these little edges?

A 70 meter rope is recommended. After lowering our 70m rope had about 15 feet left including the tie-ins. You

might

be able to use a 60m rope if you belay from the next platform up and to the right (base of

Main Crack

) and rappel or lower to a narrow ledge about 10 feet up, then downclimb. If you use a 60m definitely knot the end or tie the belayer in.

A pleasant jaunt up a slabby, lichen-covered face with an angled roof thrown in to keep it interesting. The position is pleasant and somewhat exposed-feeling.

Start up the slabby section below the roof, slinging a horn off to the left if desired, or placing gear in the corner crack on the right of the face. The climbing is fairly mellow with plenty of positive edges. Put a cam or two in the crack under the roof, move up near the upper edge and put a smallish cam (e.g.,  #.5 BD C4) in the crack over the roof.

Pull over the roof, clip the first bolt, and then travel parallel to the arete on solid, positive edges to the chains.

Description

Protection

Routes in Ed and Terry Wall