A single locker is useful to clip the 1st bolt.  A powerful sustained section of climbing leads to the 2nd bolt.  After clipping it, enjoy one of the coolest faces at Sam's.  Remeber to angle up and left after the last bolt.  This route is considered height dependent and opinions of difficuly range from 11a through 11d.  At 5'9", I think 11c.

Ode to a Portly Man

Battle of the Bulge

Cassi's Nightmare

Paternal Instinct

Flat Bottom Girls

Fat City

Coup D'etat

The Wasp

Reptilian

The Ramp

Little Sheba

Papillion

The crux is at the start and continues up past the 2nd bolt. Consider stick clipping the second bolt. Pumpy route from the start and does not let up for a ways.   (The route was put up on lead).

Climb the chimney, wide crack on decent rock to the roof.  Pull through the roof 20 feet up via the fist crack and continue on the slightly slabby dihedral to the anchors.  Good rock starting in the roof.

Climb 15 feet up to the overhanging hand and fist crack.  Follow it up and over the bulge, ending up on a slab.  Climb the chickenhead covered slab up and right to the overhanging handcrack.  Pull this roof and anchor on the tree directly above. 

  There are two other options for topping out to keep this climb at 5.9+.  At the slab, either go around the roof to the right(5.8) or traverse left to top out(5.6).  These alternatives avoid some great moves, though.

Start in the same corner as Pumpy Love(left of Battle of the Bulge), then at the horizontal break, traverse a handcrack left to the large red fin.  Pull through the bulge here on seams(pro and technical crux) and up the beautiful plated face.

Climb up an easy dirty section to reach the acute left-leaning crack with a small roof move. After squirming up and over the ledge run it out to the top.

Climb the slabby face and dihedral to the point where the dihedral crack becomes a chimney.  There, 1. climb the left side of the chimney to gain the clifftop, or 2. go right on the face to top out.  I prefer option 1.  Good rock.

The namesake of the wall, this line follows a bouldery start to a thin seam. The crux comes low but you''ll still have fun fighting the pump while placing mostly small pro above.

Climb up the rotten rock 20 feet to the roof crack.  Turn the roof in a flaring offwidth and continue in it 30-40 more feet to the top out.  Good rock from the roof, onwards.

Climb the face/crack on decent rock 20 feet to gain the roof.  Pull the roof and continue in the dihedral crack angling up and right for another 30 feet or so to the anchors.  Good rock after the start.

This route is more commonly used as a quick approach to the West and East Main Bluffs as well as the Throne climbing areas.  Start by gaining the ledge then begin the low angled easy slab that is quite run out. The first piece of pro can be placed just before the crux where the route goes vertical. Pull a few moves to gain a set of tiered ledges and the clip the chains.  You can then top out and enjoy a 3-5 minute easy hike back to the parking lot if you want to avoid the steeper, longer dog walk approach.

Sweet pitch of face climbing. Pass through a slightly sandy, gray start, and pull in to a "sea of perfect crimps". Traverse left and then head up straight through the crux. Beautiful rock and sustained movement on dreamy crimps and precise feet.

Mostly cracks, a few stellar faces, though.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Coup D'etat Wall