A scruffy slab leads to some easy moves up the aréte. The rock on the short aréte is quality.

Fiddleneck Aréte

Silver Carpet

Biome

Fern Dust

The Frond

Indian Paintbrush

Thin moves off the deck lead to a ledge. The crux is above, at the left-leaning seam.

Lower from two bolts with rings.

Turn the roof directly and follow thin moves past the steep bulge.

Steep climbing on quality stone.

Top Roping:

There are two bolts up top for the TR. Hike up the third class gully and follow a faint trail over the other side to reach the ledge.

Turn the roof via the very short, wide crack

(10a)

. Then lieback the huge rib to reach the two bolt anchor.

Top Roping:

a top rope can easily be set up from above.

From the top of the crag, walk down the left side (climber's left) to access the big ledge halfway up the face. At the end of the ledge, the top of

Fern Dust

is marked by two black bolts with rings.

Make your own belay at the base of the prominent aréte.

Steep moves off the belay lead to more aréte liebacking and a classic top out.

Top Roping

:

A top rope can easily be rigged by following the trail through the meadow and up the third class gully. Follow the path a short ways; a trail branching off right will lead to the two bolt anchor.

A sixty five foot trad climb in a great setting.

Options for the start include a super thin 5.12 boulder problem on a beautiful, water hardened sandstone slab. This is the most direct line to the first chance for pro, a cam behind a rib. Two 5.8 starting variations offer alternatives.

The uppermost part is a section of thin and exposed 5.8 with solid pro below the feet.

The top out is great and offers excellent views of the canyons and the East End of Ojai.

Two half-inch bolts reside topside for anchor duty.

The three starting variations:

Wandering Start (5.8)

Starts right of the

Boulder Problem Start

. Grab the shelf and mantle. Then traverse left to the rib.

Right Side Direct (5.8) R

Begin as for the

Wandering Start

but climb directly upward through the lower face. This variation is unprotected.

Boulder Problem Start (5.12)

Micro edges, directly beneath the left facing ribs. A stout problem on good rock guards the first chance for pro.

Top Roping

: a top rope can be set up on two bolts by scrambling up the right hand side of the formation (3rd class) on the obvious trail.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Upper Foothill (The Hideout)