"Bold and intimidating, this route is sure to please the hardcore crack climber."

This is a sustained and serious route. It was a classic line when it went up nearly 20 years ago. But since then, the bat guano Baum mentions has become HUGE! It has caused the lower third of the route to become... slick... bring some hand sanitizer.

The route itself climbs a giant open book corner for 200 feet. There are 4 cruxes: baggy fingers down low, a rest then a stout OW before the belay. Next, a bouldery throw into a steep finger lock right off the belay. Finally, the psychological crux: 20+ feet of full body stems with one marginal piece of pro- a red camalot.  From a final rest there is a choice of 10 fingers in a left facing corner or a 9+ splitter on the right.

Last Rites

Ecylias

Sunrise

Chariots of Fire

Rite of Passage

Sidewinder

Unknown

The Chalk of Destiny

Mayachulla

Moon Shadow

The Quarrel

2021 Edit: This route is the squeeze chimney directly beneath the Quarry Proper. It's actually pretty good as far as chimneys go- and classic Unaweep. Some incredibly imaginative beta at the crux. One piece of advice, go right hip in and there is some miraculous gear and holds. The chimney then shifts to OW and once things get desperate, consider your blindspot ;)

Above the OW, you can stay in gully and climb into the quarry proper, ultimately climbing up either

Weinerschtitzel

,

Decoco Crack

, or Hans Landa

. My preference: move right on sporty 5.10- face to the anchors of

Kira, get a job!

and link into that route for a mega 210' pitch of 5.10+

Just be aware the you would be in the danger zone if gumbies in the Quarry are kicking down loose rock, so let other parties know if you plan to climb under them.

A great route that deserves more traffic. Ecylias throws every size possible at you from tips to OW. The crux is definitely pulling past the roof off bad fingerlocks, gastons, and dicey stems. If you make it past that, you will be rewarded with great hands and easy OW for another 75 feet. Belay off a big tree (hard to miss).

The second pitch is not recommended, unless you really like 5.6 hands, 5.8 OW, or any other chossy option up there.

Another beautiful crack climb on Quarry Wall. Very clean for Unaweep.

Start just right of a dihedral system in a short, left-facing corner that quickly turns to a nice crack system on a face.

A couple tricky moves get you of the ground and into the nice clean hand and finger crack.  Continue up, utilizing a few stems on the left, to a point where the crack arches sharply left.  Continue strait up into another finger and hand crack that arches above the original (crux).  Continue up this crack, again stemming left occasionally, until the crack merges with the dihedral.  From here, you make a few tricky moves past a bulge and gain a nice ledge and belay.

Walk off right or climb one of a few short cracks leading off the exit ramp.

Chariots of Fire is the splitter immediately right of

Sidewinder

. In fact, halfway or so up the pitch it is possible to move left to a good rest on

Sidewinder

. The first crux, for me at least, was trying to get back into the Chariots' crack after this rest. Steep bouldery moves protected by small, sparse pro lead to another rest before the second crux: slightly overhanging, thin hands/rattly fingers. An amazing line and a proud tick for sure.

At the top, move slightly right on face holds when the crack system pinches down and gets desperate. A newish anchor with rings at the top.

The full name of this route is "Rite of Passage: A Tribute to Mugs Stump." It is considered one of the hardest ticks in the Canyon (2020 update: that is no longer true by a long shot!). KC dedicated the route to his friend, the visionary climber Mugs Stump, who had recently died near the time of the FA.

This is a 4 star route that has probably not seen 10 ascents in 15 years. It has fallen into disrepair. There are large bushes growing in the middle of the route and much of the crack is muddy. With regular ascents, this route would be a Unaweep classic. Even as it stands now, it is worth doing.

Baum breaks the route into 3 pitches, but it could be done in two long pitches. Climb fingers and face until the crack opens more, eventually ledging out 120 feet up (optional first belay). Continue with good, steep hands and finger to another stance (60 feet). Here is where the bushes get gnarly. Climb steep hands, passing an OW with a rest. Now the crux: flared tips for 6 feet- very sequential! Once through the business, enjoy steep jamming of various sizes until you reach the most desperate mantle I've ever done. Good luck. It's a brilliant end to a memorable climb - pure Unaweep!

Great climb that is steep and follows a great natural line. Don't let the beginning scare you away. Just do the first pitch and rap down.

Well were dropping in looking for the climb "Lichen"  which gets three stars.  But in all honesty it kinda looked like shit so we sniffed around for another line out.  In this section of Quary wall there are two large Ponderosa Pines this route is about thirty feet climbers right of the rightmost one when looking up at the wall.  Not too bad, some good clean climbing some junk it would probably get lots better with some traffic or if someone took it upon them selves to drop in and clean it out a bit.

P1: Get out of the drain that is "Lichen" and head to the skiers left down and around the corner.  You are looking for a clean hands/fist/ OW left facing corner.  the sectionos is kinda short like 20' or so but it is unmistakeble.  Head out the line of least resistance up a hard OW section to the top of a pillar below a cleanish finger crack.    110' -/+  5.10

P2:  Slot a good micro tcu into the seam and Tension left into the hand crack and fire up to the rim.  This move looked about 5.11 but you basically were moving onto hanging unstable dirt clumps.  So we jsut passed this short section the way the french do, and continued on through good fairly clean cracks to the rim.  100' 5.10

This is a two pitch trad/mixed route. The first pitch is long and takes gear only. The second pitch has bolts to a finger crack. Climb past a small roof (left) up the black water streak to the ledge belay. Then crimp and finger lock you way to the top of the wall.

I gave this climb two stars, because it WOULD be good if someone cleaned out the vegetation. This route probably hasn't seen an ascent in several years.

Once clean, this line offers some exciting face climbing past two bolts before entering an unusual L-facing corner with OW and random jams before reaching the same ledge and tree anchor as

Ecylias

.

Choose your own adventure for a chossy second pitch (same as

Ecylias

).

This is a great climb that can be done in two pitches, but it's well worth doing as one.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Central Quarry Wall