The crux is turning in the bulge at bolt five

The Bearded Lady

Le Cirque

Butthead

Ranger Danger

Sweet Pea

Beavis

Ann Bay Lee

Pizz Whiz

No Hope Without Dope

Memorial Daze

Road Kill

Accidental Tourist

Ars Fabrilis

[Redacted]

Feed The Sweed

Twin Peaks

Cornholio

Beatle Bay Lee

Foul Fowl

El Diablo

Elephant Burial Ground

Fledgling

The name is a reference to the Barnum Circus.  The crux is going from bolt 4 to 5 on the short headwall.  The crux is height dependent and tall climbers may find it easier than 5.8.

  It is fun 5.6/7 climbing to the headwall crux for the final 15-20 feet.

This is directly to the right of Beavis on the west face.  Follow the bolts using great jugs for hands and feet.  Good route for a warm-up and a good beginner lead.

This is an arete on the right hand side of an obvious open book directly above a flat spot at the top of the trail.  Follow the arete clipping the bolts as you go.

Pitch 1: short 2 bolt and optional gear on easy climbing pitch leads to belay ledge, 5.5. The second pitch is entirely gear. 5.7ish arete then 5.4ish to the bottom of a head wall that is 5.8- then up to the summit. Sling a horn to rap or walk off (may include short raps). 

  The easiest way to get all the way up to the summit of Barnum Rock.

This is the leftmost route on the southern face of the Bay Lee wall.  The hardest moves are at the start.  Some interesting moves wiith great hand and foot holds.  Of the two single pitch routes on this face, this is the better one.

This is located right of Ranger Danger. Follow the bolts to the chains. This route has interesting moves with an abundance of good hands and feet.

This is the bolted route all the way to the left of the easily accessible part of the south face.  Boulder up to first bolt and clip, crux is directly below (and protected by) the first bolt.  Move right after the fourth bolt and clip to anchor at top of pitch 1.  Pitch two goes straight up from the anchor -- it is vertical face with jug holds for about 15 feet, then it gets real easy to the anchors.

This is an alternate start to Pizz Whiz.  Start left of the direct start up a obvious ramp with a small tree at the top.  Protect in the crack at the top of the ramp and traverse right to the second bolt on Pizz Whiz, then follow Pizz Whiz to the anchors.

First route to the right of where the trail meets the wall. Climbs an open book. Mostly pretty easy climbing but with 2 seperate cruxes one between the 2ed and 3ed bolt and one between the 5th bolt and the chains.

Climbs the Face to the right of the prominent roof and arete.

This is located on the southwest corner of the Bay Lee wall.  Follow the bolts to the chains.  This is an okay route - good for a warm up, but not the best on this wall by any means.

This route starts up nice slab that then turns to a more vertical face. Before the steep finish you have to pull over a small budge with an huge under-cling. Thinner holds at the top with a nice exposed finish.

This route is the next route right of The Bearded Lady. This is the only sport route that leads all the way to the top of Barnum Rock.Pitch 1 / 60ft (5.8):Start off on vertical face climbing which quickly leads to a small roof. Pull the small roof which puts you into the delicate crux section. Continue on easier climbing to anchors on top of pitch 1.Pitch 1 is fun to do just as a single pitch if you don't wanna do or don't have time to do the whole route. It has mussy anchors to lower offPitch 2 / 60 ft (5.6):The second pitches crux is the first two bolts. Climbing up and right through the crux to then hit easier terrain. Follow the bolts that roll out right and up to the second anchor on a large ledge.Pitch 3 / 75 ft (5.8):The last pitch leaves from the large ledge and makes its way through some beautiful rolling slabs. The end of the slabs is guarded by a small slightly overhanging crack that makes the crux of this pitch. Make the exposed crux moves through the crack and pull on to the upper clean slab. Look out left for the final bolts and moves. Some may want a belay from final anchor up and over short distance to flat area and large block below 3rd anchor (or all the way to the saddle).Descent: Walk off to the North. Hike down hill along the west side of the wall to get back to the main wall area.  Note: Rappel anchors off the back side have been chopped. Can either down climb to saddle (couple 3rd or 4th class moves, not too exposed) or belay first climber down from large block at flat area below the 3rd anchor.  Nice lunch spot by large boulder.

Directly left of Foul Fowl you will find a bolted route that leads to a set of chains located right below a pair of small "peaks".  The first bolt is quite a ways up, but the climbing to reach it is barely 5th class.  After that follow the bolts until you reach a big groove below the last bolt.  That groove will take a bomber large nut (#8 DMM Wallnut).  The crux is on the headwall below the chains, protected by the last bolt.

3 (or 2) Pitch route. Wear Helmets!  

  Pitch 1: 90', takes either "Bevis" or "Butthead" to the chains, B/C.  

  Pitch 2: 30-35', heads left along the belay ledge then up and right via a low angle ramp. Once 7-10' above the belay step right around the bulge (exposed but easy)to a small dihedral and climb face just right of crack/small right facing dihedral to belay ledge with 7-8" diameter tree for an anchor, Trad. When stepping onto the 2ed belay ledge be very careful not to pull on the completely disconnected death flake (we would trundle but it would have hit our stuff/belay ledge/ hangers on P1/ and might not have stopped before the road. There is a good bit of smaller loose rocks on the ledge too not much in the area where you sit/stand but a couple feet to the left. You can link this to pitch 1 but you CAN NOT rap to the ground from the tree with a 60m rope.  

  Pitch 3: 95', heads to the summit via easy climbing (4th class-5.5). You can make it harder if you want through your route selection. Sling a boulder or horn to rap back down to tree or walk/scramble (and maybe short raps) to the north/west. We rapped the route. If you really wanted to you could also link pitches 2 and 3 but splitting them up makes communicating and rope drag much better as from the chains at the top of pitch 1 you can't see the tree at the top of pitch 2 or the lower half of pitch 3. So if you want to link pitches link pitch 1 and 2.

From the top of the trail (Ranger Danger) go left maybe 20-30 feet to where you can see a crack to the right of a short overhanging headwall. The route starts on low angle EASY stuff (5.3-5.4 at most) until it gets to the short overhanging headwall, where it rapidly turns into a 5.9 for 2-3 moves, then gets easy again to reach a huge ledge with chain anchors. Belay the second from the top andrap if you do this one or the drag will rip up your rope

To the left of Beatle Bay Lee (10-15 feet) you will find two more bolted routes. The right hand one ("Foul Fowl") has like 6-7 bolts.  It goes straight up and over a small roof.  The crux is near the top.

Face with bolt(s) to diagonal crack/mini roof that takes gear to bolted face to chains.

It is a fun easy climb that adds another 5.7 to the area. We talked with "Bob" a long time local who said it had been top roped in the past.

Climbs the face under an obvious roof.  Then transitions onto the arete to the anchors.

Barnum is a nice rock high on the mountain with a reasonably short approach and a number of easy but fun routes.  Most of the routes are bolted with chain anchors.  The 7500' altitude and trees for shade make this a comfortable area to climb when the temps are rising in the valley.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Barnum Rock