Climb a thin crack with face holds for about forty feet, then step left and undercling/lieback a thin flake that curves up and left ending on a large ledge beneath the previously mentioned corner.

Expect fun climbing on high quality rock in a relatively uncrowded area, as this side of the Dairy Queen Wall sees little action. Well worth doing as along with a number of the other routes here. Two stars out of five.

Leap Year Flake

Leap Erickson

Pugsley

The Mojus (aka Slushie)

Norm

Snake Oil

Blizzard

Faith Healer

Get Right or Get Left (aka Addams Family)

Five Tree

Morticia

Karl's Magic Goggles

The Foot Massage

Lurch

Leap of the Imagination

Wednesday's Child

Tabby Tree

Look Before You Leap

Leap of Faith

Gomez

Start up a left-slanting ramp to reach a high first bolt, above which some reachy difficult moves lead onto a somewhat low-angled slab. Delicate moves on small, sometimes friable, flakes give way to a steepening wall with small grey knobs and protrusions that provide entertaining climbing.

Gear belay and then walk right to a rap station located 10 meters down and right from the top of

Leap Year Flake

.

Note - a 70 meter rope is needed to TR this route

.

This is the steepening slab just left of Mojus- tightly bolted enough to be considered a sport climb. The route gets progressively more difficult at each bolt.

Rap from the 2-bolt anchor, or continue up the upper section of Mojus past 2 more bolts (5.11-) then up and right to a crack (1-inch CD for pro).

From here climb up and right to the Addams Family 2-bolt anchor (100-foot rappel).

This route climbs a smooth slab near the center of the left side and features some difficult smears at the crux.

Not a great route but it's fairly long and offers some good movement throughout it's length. Two stars out of five.

Start up a short section of smooth slab with a jagged crack to reach a small roof/overlap with a fixed pin about 15' up, above which is the first of five bolts. The climb moves slightly right after the second bolt to reach a shallow corner, which is followed up to a small mantleshelf and the third bolt. Above, climb through a lower-angled section before the wall steepens and enjoyable smearing and liebacking on the edge of the flake continues past two more bolts to anchors. The rock is a fine grained gray with the occasional knob, which is a pleasant departure from the more typical oatmeal-colored rock.

This is a fun climb that rarely sees traffic due to it's location on the less popular left side of the DQ Wall. A pleasant area to explore that has an easier and shorter approach than the more frequented right side of the wall. Two stars out of five.

Climbs a long broken crack system in a vague right-facing corner. Gear belay at the top and walk down and right across the ledge above

Leap Year Flake

to reach rap anchors.

A bit of a grindy wide crack.

Grainy and a bit insecure.

Likely mostly top roped.

Climbs a crack to right-facing corner which ends and finishes past some large blocks. Gear belay at the top and walk down and right across the ledge above

Leap Year Flake

to reach rap anchors.

Climb easy terrain to a solitary bolt about 20 feet up then continue up a low-angled slab past a grapefruit-sized knob at the base of a vertical headwall with a featured crack.

Intriguing moves, as well as textbook stopper slots, will be found throughout this section; higher the route follows a crack in a left-facing corner which affords some nice stemmming and thin jamming.

The crack ends about 20 feet below the anchors, and while possible to climb directly, an easier (and safer) alternative is to cut right about 8 feet to reach another crack system leading to the anchor. Bolted anchor/rap.

This is an enjoyable route reminiscent of the featured cracks of the upper Dairy Queen Wall, as well as the Shorter Wall in Rock Garden Valley. Three stars out of five.

This is the left of two approach cracks to gain the upper level routes starting halfway up the face. Not especially exciting but it does provide an alternate approach that goes at an easier grade.

This link-up connects the best part of Mojus to finish on the upper half of Addams Family.

Climb a beautiful slab past 2 bolts (5.10b/c; well-protected at the crux) then run it out a bit on easier slab (5.7/8) to a steeper section with 3 closely-spaced bolts (5.10+). At the 5th bolt move right and finish up the left facing corner/crack of Addams Family (5.8).

Start out of a gully (

Tabby Tree

) and climb the face left of Norm passing along a vertical seam down low; the route stays independent the entire way.

Perhaps worth doing while the rope is hanging there.

Foot Massage starts via some crumbly rock to a bolt ( missing hanger, *small nut to sling*).  Slab climb a weaving path past 3 more bolts to the upper crack.  Easier crack climbing leads to interesting moves surmounting the roof.  Longer than it looks from the ground with some challenging slab moves.  Could use some clean up.

Start just right of a yucca and move up and left into a seam which quickly becomes a crack which is followed to it's end where face climbing past a large grey knob gains an arete.

Climb the arete until able to stem across the wide crack of

Five Tree

to an

adjoining block and climb large features past a loose flake, f

inishing with a short section of thin crack in excellent rock. Two stars out of five.

Begin up

Five Tree

and start climbing the very wide crack that veers off to the right.

A slabbier and slightly less protected version of Tabby Treat at Suicide Rock.  (Hell, Faith Healer reminded me a bit of Graham Crackers.) Route wanders through the gully and can finish at the sappy tree.  (Tabby Treat also has a tree landmark you can't miss.)  The crack moves to reach the tree are the steepest and involve jamming/chimneying.

Start this climb as per

Leap Year Flake

, by climbing a thin crack to a prominent undercling flake about 50' up. Once established in the undercling flake head straight up via runout face climbing to the spacious ledge below Pat Adams Dihedral.

Descent is from a bolted anchor about 30' down and right of where the climbs ends. Due to the runout nature of the climbing this route is better suited as a toprope or a lead for those solid at the grade. One star out of five.

Climbs a slanting right-facing corner system to cracks and then moves slightly right to finish with the last two bolts on

Leap Erickson

.

Gear belay at the top and walk down and right across the ledge above

Leap Year Flake

to reach rappel anchors.

Mistakenly identified as "

Look Before You Leap

" (which is further right on this same rock) in the Joshua Tree West guidebook.

Climbs a steepening slab to vertical headwall (5.11) before entering a steep but featured crack system (5.8). Angle left to the chain anchors on

Get Right or Get Left

, or gear belay and scramble/climb left to access the anchors to rap (

100' rap!

).

A huge piece of rock has fallen from this route making it much harder than it's original 5.10a rating.

Enjoyable climbing on quality rock, and in a locale that sees little traffic make this a good tick for the grade if in the area. Two stars out of five.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Dairy Queen Wall - Left Side