Super fun 11. Guidebook rates it 11d, compared to other routes of the same grade at Sinks, this probably could go at 11b/c.

Start in a finger crack in a dihedral laybacking to not too technical face climbing. Get a great nap at a ledge then pull the lip to easy jugs to anchor.

Careful in Fairfield, I've found a good bit of loose rock coming off the climbs here.

Hellzapoppin

Zebra Cakes

Doll Face

The Mandate

Best God in Show

Jump Jim Crow

Ancient History

Visualize Whirled Peas

Screaming Trees

Exile on Main Street

Youth Culture Killed My Dog

Lander Stew

Make Peas Great Again

Chainsaw Willy

Fomites That Bite

Have Mercy

World on a String

Nobody's Fault But Mine

Beef Pudding

36 Chambers

Body Built for Sin

I Wish I Was a Catfish

Coyote Delight

Saucerfull of Secrets

My Dying Bride

Tiger Style

Proper Distancing

Catfishin' Victor Blanco

The Old and the Reckless

Uncle Meat

Diluted Limelight - Open Project

Project- closed

Born X-Eyed

American Nightmare

Touch of Gray

Atom Tan

Straight, No Chaser

The RH route (unknown)

Rez Ride

Bound to Stencil

Hanoi Jane's Video Workout

Electric Fence

Alan Shephard Goes to Space

Baby Cakes

D. Doll Route

Doll Parts

Feminine Intuition

Last Trip to Tulsa

The Best Route in Wuhan

Brave Like Old John Wayne

Our Barbies Ourselves

My First Rodeo

Kang Flu

Brooklyn Zoo

A bouldery start to the first bolt, pull a few more moves to a rest on the right.  Proceed up the prow with some interesting 5.10 moves.  Well-protected.

I added another bolt a few years ago so it isn't so led out and replaced the old chain anchor with Fixx rings.

Flat tech wall.  Sequential crimps and pockets.  Devious and hard for the grade.

tech face with continuing difficulties and pump factor.

Crux between 2nd and 3rd bolts. Some thin edging and pockets to easier climbing above. Nicely done and well bolted.  A couple of suspect holds that warrant a ginger touch but otherwise enjoyable.

Start up a short lieback to beautiful, copper-colored crimps on velcro-quality rock.  Continues through some standard Fairfield pockets to clip n lowers.  Excellent stone quality and movement.

A cruxy start leads to thin climbing, finishing off on larger holds.  Climb has unique style/feel not everyone will appreciate.

Sort of a fussy 10a with some high steps and thin moves from the ground to the second bolt.  Some people may want to stick-clip the first bolt. After the second bolt, it becomes substantially easier.

Ascends the face right of the black streak of Last Trip to Tulsa.  Sustained 5.10a/b all the way to the anchor, mainly crimping up higher.  Well protected and really quite fun, though unfortunately short.

This line has a bouldery start on smallish holds, leading up through the first two bolts.   Then it gets really easy after that (5.8?).

Pretty good line on nice stone, although it is all over after the second bolt.

Old school vertical test piece from the Master, Branscomb.  Super good and needs to be appreciated more.  Should be some ticks on it.  Devious and somewhat continuous.

A fun rompy face climb with some enjoyable and sometimes balancy moves.

Follows crack until last two bolts up a face.

Steep, pocketed climbing, which gives way to lower-angle rock with good holds and a mantle at the top.

A great line with distinct types of climbing.  Some powerful laybacking, a transition from layback to face climbing and intricate face climbing above.  The transition is likely the crux.  A worthy line, with well placed but somewhat spaced bolts.

Be sure to put all of your PPE on for this one!   Stem up a somewhat sharp dihedral before transitioning left onto the face above.

You get extra points if you can do the whole climb without your hands touching your face...or the rock.

One of the older routes, put up in the early 1990's.  At least 3 variations of the opening sequence have been done (right left and center). All three are pretty bouldery, V1-2ish (stick clip #2?). Crimp over another 5.10 section to the third bolt, after which things get easier. Pretty fun stuff and gets your attention.

Tech slab on black rock.  You understand!  Sharp don’t expect chalk, it’s worth figuring it out.  Would be a hard onsite.

Flat tech wall.  The right route of the 2.  Again, sequential and devious pockets.  Good stone.

Enter the Wu-Tang, or more commonly referred to as "36 Chambers" was Wu-Tang Clan's debut album in 1993 and has since sold over 2 million copies and is regarded as one of the best and most influential hip-hop records of all time.

Much like the album, this route is rugged, raw, and depicts the harsh reality of struggling in New York in the early 90's.

Start on the little block attached to the wall and pull a badass boulder problem off the deck on slightly terrible pockets to a flat undercling. From here, fire up side pulls and pinch pockets out the bulge. It ain't over till' you clip the chains. Living in the world no different from a cell.

Begin on a tricky, slightly overhanging start with deep pockets.  Proceed to a lower angle headwall with edges and pockets to a shared anchor.

Vertical crimping, fairly sustained to the fourth bolt. Pockets from there to the anchor. Not very obvious what to do in a couple of places: have to be creative.

Flakes and pockets give way to a large rest and a few steep moves guard the chains.

Proceed straight up to the 3 bolt anchor.  Well protected.  Between the second and fourth bolts is the crux area involving some wicked crossovers.  Doesn't let up much all the way.

Easy beginnings to crux after crux and never letting off until you've dropped the rope in the anchor. Great 5.12 cruxes; yeah, that's right: plural! Real for the grade.

Nails hard tech wall.  Very continuous and devious.  Good rock.

Line of glue ins, through flakes and folds, just left of

Touch of Gray

. Slightly overhanging and pumpy for much of its length.

Start on a large leaning flake to clip the first bolt, then make a few tricky moves to big reaches on good pockets and rails.

Just to the right of Touch of Grey . Black streak above some flake features. Cool holds and somewhat continuous.

Route next right to Youth Culture.  Sparse bolting and the moves are really probably only 5.7 but it would be pretty gripping for a 5.7 leader.

Project/roof.  Obvious. Suspect 5.12-13 range.

Just to the right of Electric Fence. Seam to traverse left to face.   5.11-12 range

Closed project.

Great continuity with lots of 9ish moves.   Nice stone too.

Angles up and left and has some thought provoking sequences.

Recommended!

Obvious corner/seam just to the right of the roof project.  Fun climbing up high also.  Fairly sustanied.  Water streak so may get dusty and need some resurrecting.

Really nice line with lots of good continuity on nice pockets.   10c is a reasonable grade, but be ready for lots of 10c moves.   It felt harder than the nearby 11a (Screaming Trees).   But at any rate it is a very quality route in a great setting.

Slab pillar of sorts.  Decent.

Loaded with crystal pockets.

Start up slab to corner feature.  Follow crack until it peters out and finally eases onto slab.  Final moves are not straight forward.

Obvious dihedral.  Trad sport climbing.  Fun!!!

Tech wall with pockets and cool sequences.

Hard and tricky off the ground.  Black rock with smallish holds.  Par for the wall.

Flat pocketed wall that steepens.  Decent climbing up high and fun position.

This obscure route apparently sees very little traffic, judging from the absence of chalk and the cobwebs in the pockets.

Nice bouldery moves lead through the first 3 bolts - unfortunately the holds are also quite sharp. So if your tips survive, you then have a bunch of easier climbing on holds that are still pretty sharp.

On the whole, this route has decent enough stone and movement to warrant a star or so, but it isn't likely to be anyone's favorite.  Worth doing if your in the area and your fingertips aren't already ragged.

Start with a few easy moves to a cruxy bouldery sequence that includes an undercling, small crimps and a variety of angled edges. The route transitions to fun pockets, large lock-offs and big moves.

Just to the left of a roof project.  Not sure of the grade.  Slab flake to a corner and ledge. A little dirty.

powerful start to pumpy climbing leading towards the dihedral to the left and then back to the anchor up and right.

Fun route with an interesting lay away/pinch crux at the second bolt.  Easier from there to the anchor.  Shares the anchor with Make Peas Great Again.

Follows a black streak in a sustained 5.8 manner.  Unfortunately short but surprisingly fun.

Tech nasty black rock.  Smallish crockets (crimp pockets).  Bouldery and technical start to tricky exit.

last few climbs before Fairfield West starts.  The Doll Face is an obvious overhanging bulge feature.  The bulge has two routes,.12+ and .13b, L to R, then an obvious dihedral to the right and another face which houses "Doll Parts" .11+ and "Our Barbies Ourselves" .12a/b.

Technical start to continous overhang and tech face above.  Good movement!

It's a bit funky, and a bit harder then it looks! Crimps, a bit of stemming, side pulls, a short finger crack, to a no hands rest, etc. Getting through the finger crack is the crux. Varied climbing - have fun!

Technical face/water streak 2 routes right of the obvious roof project.

Equipped by Ben Sears, FA by Griff

Brooklyn Zoo is a short prow route with a couple monos and some good pockets.  Would deserve more stars if it was not so short.  It is worth jumping on if you are climbing all the short routes in this section.

Description

Protection

Routes in 2. Fairfield Central