Scramble up a right leaning ramp to a ledge then continue up right again to gain the bottom of a wide crack. Squeeze your way up the tight chimney to the top of the cliff.

Beginner's Nightmare

Golden Fleece

Adrenaline

Finger Filet

What a Maroon

Ripp-Off

Face Farce

Walk left from the base of Beginner's Nightmare to an inspiring crack which splits a bulging face. Climb a short slab to the left of a seam. Protect out of the crack but climb slippery ladder-like holds to its left until the lip. Reach back to the crack for some gnarly fingerlocks and thrash over the bulge. Saunter up the crack, move right, and face climb to a substantial tree.

Start up a splitter hand crack with plenty of face holds for hands and feet. The crack thins a bit higher up and then opens into a sandy, mossy, sloping top out. Might be best to either TR or set an anchor just before the top of the cliff.

Climb the hand and finger crack just right of a conspicuous pointed boulder.

"Layback the sandbagged start, then pull over the deceptively easy overhang near the top."

If you have big mits you can delay the layback or possibly even avoid it completely.

Reportedly an old school 5.4, now thought closer to 5.8.

Left-facing overhanging dihedral. Climb up a crack to the corner, then stem to a ledge. Traverse right to a rappel tree.

Climb the low-angled face left of Ripp-Off, working slightly left. Mantle off an undercling to a sloping dirt ledge. Wander to the top.

This is the first pocketed face climb of the Red.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Princess Arch