The crux is coming out of the roof through the first two bolts on the headwall. The climbing is surprisingly good after the crux. Trad technique will get you far! One more mild crux protects the finish.

Don't let the chossy rock down low keep you from this. The crux is very unique and not something you oft find at the beautiful NRG.

Evil Dick

Timber

Desperately Seeking Susan

Temporary Insanity

Killing Fields

Munson Burner

Converging Paths

Luv Nuthing

Stoatastic Crack

Heaven Cent

The New Traditionalists

Inchworm

Finger Crack in White Corner

Judgement Night

Guillotine

Unnamed

The Beckoning

Start on a short wide corner up to a spider-web filled alcove.  This first section has some loose rock.  From the alcove, go out a couple little roofs, into the imposing overhanging splitter.  Overhanging hands, thin hands, and ringlocks gradually get more vertical, but the climbing stays pretty hard and the crack gets thinner.  Be aware that toproping this route can be a major cluster, due to its steep and right-leaning nature.  This is arguably the best pure jamming route of any grade at the NRG.

The crux is getting into the elevator shaft at the top of the dihedral. The slabby start is a bit tough to protect, however there is gear here. The best part of the climb is the dihedral that makes up the majority of the climbing. Really good route and very fun for the grade.

This is one of the best of S.Nut's "moderates" and has a bolted anchor, making it a great warmup for the harder lines here.  The only caveat is about 15-18 feet of unprotected squeeze chimney right off the ground, which is definitely the crux!  You might be able to protect this opening with a big bro, but otherwise you'll have to just squeeze your way up to the first horizontal and some "thank god" gear.  After emerging from the squeeze, enjoy amazing 5.9 face, crack, and layback moves up to one of the best views in the NRG.

I'm just going to go ahead and say it– this is the best hard splitter at the NRG, and is defined by consistent 5.12 crack climbing, with maybe three v5-6-ish cruxes involving face holds thrown in to keep it challenging.  Despite the guidebook's playing up the climb name, this is not an "insane" or unusually crazy/reckless climb.  Just super good.

Start well to the left of the splitter, and climb maybe 35 feet of 5.9 slabby climbing to get to the base of the splitter.  It's unprotected, but if you're on a hard climb like this you should not be falling on 5.9, right?  This is the only runout section of the route.

At the base of the splitter you've got a lot of options for gear, before you bust into a 20-foot sequence that is the hardest section of the climb.  From here, get a good kneebar/tree-wrap rest, before busting into a LOT more 5.12+ climbing involving underclings, pinches, and lots of great fingerlocks.

This is a really good climb that roughly follows a fingercrack/seam feature before busting right up some cool flakes for the top 30 feet.  The difficult crux is protected by a bolt, but there is plenty of solid 5.11 climbing before and after the crux as well.  There is a bit more rotten rock on this climb than many of South Nuttal's other cracks, and gear can be difficult to place.  Brassies and ballnuts are useful.

This was originally led boltless by Mark Stevenson; Bryan McCray accidentally added the two bolts a bit later.  You'll probably be glad for the bolts, though.

I am posting this to try to generate interest in the South Nuttall area.  I have never climbed this route yet it looks killer.

This is the sport route located just to the right of the unnamed finger crack.  If you are looking for an early ascent on a classic looking route...this could be for you.

This route pulls a low roof into a pair of cracks that snake up the gorgeous chunk of South Nuttall sandstone.  This is a killer route with stout climbing.

This route went up in the summer of 2000 and was never reported. I thought that it was pretty good at the time. I went back to look at the route in 2005 and it had been reclaimed by the vegetation. Probably not worth climbing now...  I include this route only to stroke my own ego for putting it up.

A great crack climb, sharper than it looks! Follow a perfect finger/hand crack to a slabbed out crack up high. When you get to the roof up high traverse hard left, either rappelling off the

Bone Sugar

anchors (not recommended) or continue to the top belay up your second and rappel off a tree.

This rarely repeated line is one of the finest routes of its grade at the NRG, on par with the best of Endless Wall or the Lower Meadow. It also feels like the hardest of the grade; closer to The Racist than Dial 911. Climb through about a half dozen bolts of 5.12+ climbing to reach the final headwall, which will throw a slew of v5-6ish boulder problems at you. Get psyched for big moves to small holds with a full pump on; this does not let up until you've clipped the anchors.

The guidebook says of this line, "Seriously, it's an 80 foot fingercrack!"  Although there is a bit of a chimney section, the description pretty much sums it up (and I think there's some sort of finger crack in the back of the chimney, so...).

The route starts right off with a sort of jump start to a jug, then some 5.10ish perfect fingers, to a squeeze chimney with hands and fingers in the back, and then the final 50 feet are an unrelenting crack with everything from good locks to tips locks to ringlocks, and one or two handjam rests.  I thought that there were two distinct cruxes.

This is a legit squeeze chimney with some great creative movement that does not let up until the very top.  You'll need the full 5.10 bag of tricks to get up this climb, which has everything from 5.9 to 10+.

This route is absolutely sick.  I would most definitely say that this route is worth the trip to South Nuttall all by itself.  Made the trip out to this thing about three times to get it done.  Took a huge whip going for it, but this route takes good gear the whole way.

The route starts in an obtuse corner with an intimidating, yet not too bad roof pull at its end.  Gear is a bit spaced through here,  but what you get is good.  Pull into the killer finger crack section and work in a few pieces of great pro and then launch up into the killer shallow dihedral. Here a mix of right side in the crack and left side on the face climbing, combined with some killer stemming leads to the top of the corner. Step right on to a small ledge where you can catch your breath from the increasingly challenging climbing you just completed. Finish by more killer stemming and crack climbing up to the two bolts below the large roof.

This route is quite sustained, so rack up...the pump clock is ticking.

"Judgement Night" travels up the steepest portion of an impressive sweeping red, orange and black wall.  The feature is reminiscent of the "Dirty Smelly Hippie" wall at the RRG, but of greater magnitude.

Try not to be deterred by some chossy holds while traveling through the first four bolts.  Pull an easy roof and then get ready for some full throttle climbing up the 30 degree wall.  Two fun dynos to good holds take you to an interesting crux pulling over on to the final vertical wall.  This isn't your typical agitating NRG fat roll finish.  Get ready for some big lock offs to crisp edges with good feet.

This is one of the better 5.10 corners at South Nuttall. Squeeze chimney to tight hands and off fingers, over several little roofs.  There used to be a namesake cooler-lid flake hanging on the left wall near the crux, but it has since fallen and buried itself gravestone-style in the ground at route's base.

This route is located in the sweeping lieback to the left of Heaven Cent. The crux is low and is a 'Mississippi Burning' ass clenching clip crux. The rock quality is unremarkable, but the movement is second to none. If you are at South Nuttall climb this line!

Quality stem corner into a steeper-than-it-looks splitter.  Low crux, but still sustained.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in South Nuttall