Climb the corner crack going right at bulge near its top with a thrilling layback move. A few more ascents will clean the lichen at the top. The key gear is: a micro cam in the middle of the crack, a large nut at the bulge, and a #3 in a leaning crack. I placed a #4 Camalot once around the corner to protect the exit moves.

A variation would go up the left side of the bulge.

Wake-Up Toys

deCeeved

Let me start off by saying I thought this was at least a 10b R with emphasis on the R, you better be on your game to onsight this climb. As the location details, we started on the left side, going up to the horn then traversing right to the crack. Once at the crack, first step left and up, then make couple of steps right then up laybacking (LB). I had to perform some garden cleaning in the layback. At the high point of the LB, step right, and run it out to the horizontal.

Begin the traverse right in the Hor crack placing your #3, #3.5, and saving the #4 for last. Go about 30 feet until the crack ends, around the corner and up. My last piece was the #4 in the crack a long way from the ledge. I suppose I could have placed a medium cam before going around the corner.

This was a real battle of a climb with long fall potential at the runouts.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Defibrillator Dome