Short TR. Wide awkward arete with thinning crystals and compression moves. A bit dirty. Lead Youranus to access the anchors for Disappearing Planets. Or probably possible to scramble up back of formation to access.

Disappearing Planets

Saturn

Meteor

Dancing in the Moonlight

Heat Seaker

Life on Mars

Pluto

Dark Helmet

Sidewinder

Jupiter

Zeus

Raining in Paradise

Icarus

Neptune

Youranus

Minuteman Variation

Minuteman

Darth Vader

Venus

Split Decision

Lunatic

Casual sport climb up the NE corner of the Galaxy formation. Follow the bolt line to the chains which can be used to TR a couple other routes to the West of this route. Great route to learn the basics of lead sport climbing on. Low incline with a nice resting ledge about 3/4 of the way up before reaching bomber chains.

Climb crack and juggy face in corner to anchors.  Or layback the whole route.

Climb the chimney to Jupiter anchor, or 5.2ish climbing to the very cool summit of Run Amuck Pinnacle and Zeus anchor.

Climb the slabby face following the bolts.

Start on the right-facing dihedral. Climb straight up the wall to the chains of Minuteman.

This is the steep slab on the right taller side of stumbling block. The start is a bit vegetated, but the route is taller and better than some of its nearby neighbors. Start climbing the left arete via stemming, laybacking and balancing off the thick left arete. Then angle up and across right on the face which steepens to vertical for a few moves (crux). Crimps and pinches are thin and the feet cryptic in this section. Then mantle onto the top of an attached column on the right side of the formation. Catch a breath and compression and straddle your way up the top of the right arete to the route’s independent anchors. This last part is just a bit easier than it initially looks.

Pull one or two crux moves to the first bolt and enjoy easier climbing to the top. Typical 5.8 Black Hills granite route, no surprises here.

Climb the easy face to the overhang. Traverse a little right to take the easiest way up and around the overhang. There's lots of big holds, so pulling the roof wouldn't be much harder anyway. Then easier ground to the anchors of Darth Vader.

Start in the crack with two pine trees. Climb the face staying right of the arete. Finish on Heat Seeker.

Very nice route on great rock.  Two mini cruxes at bolts three and four.  Look for the "hidden hold" out left!

Thin climbing to a flake.  Then surmount a small roof using small holds.  The summit is fantastic!

This is a fun, surprisingly tricky, and entertaining little mixed (trad/sport) route. Start off with some physical laybacking of a 5.9 finger crack/flake. Leverage yourself (a bit awkward) onto a smearing stance on a sloping ledge. If you haven't used a stick-clip on bolt one, clip it and hit the crux section-- which involves using some devious sloping crimps to get off the ledge, then pull through a slightly steeper section on more positive crimps and finish with a couple slab moves. Short but varied and sustained.

Bolted Arete.   This route is in the gap that left and around the corner from Lunatic.

Short. Thin and somewhat slick crimps and pinches lead to an obvious “Thank God” hold and an easy finish. Remember making the 2nd clip as being the crux. 

A variation to the start of Minuteman. Instead of climbing the bolt line, start in the flake just right of the bolts. Place some nuts and small cams if you want. Join Minuteman about halfway up the climb at the third bolt.

Two bolts protect the face climbing at the top and bottom, the crack offers additional protection between the bolts.

Climb easy ground up the left side of a large flake (gear optional) to reach the first bolt.  Great holds through the crux (2nd bolt) but it's steep so lingering could feel pumpy.

 The Orenczak/Lynn book mentions a variation start along the right side of the flake.

Start right of the chimney. Climb through three bolts and traverse left. Then gain the flake to the top.

A very sustained and slightly overhanging route up an arete. Like other routes in this area, the holds look huge from the ground and some of them are. However, once on the climb you will find that many "jugs" are actually medium-sized crimpers.

The majority of climbs here are either sport or mixed climbs (i.e bring your nuts and cams). Climbs are short, close together, on good quality rock with closely spaced bolts.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in The Galaxy