This is a good climb once you get going... if this is your sort of thing.  If you like OW/squeeze, it is perfect.  If you don't, it is hell.

The beginning 7 meters of the route are dingy and poor but soon leads to better moves on good rock and good protection for a second 7 meters, including what may be the crux for some climbers.  Beyond that point, it is you, your wide gear, and what you choose to do with it.  The crack is splitter, solid, and wide.  Some smaller gear (to 2") can be placed to the right of the crack at mid-height for a break from the wide gear.

Thunderstruck

Forgotten Passage

Petticoat

Magnum P.I.

This is the only route currently published on The Throne. It begins in an alcove on the NE face, West of the obvious splitter offwidth. It is not very good, but from it, you can see some good routes! Entirely Forgettable.

The first pitch is a complete pile. Climb up to a traverse on a slopey ramp pass a fixed pin, and climb up the horrible crack/munge system to a low angled ramp system. Belay before the ledge turns slabby. My partner was terrified on this pitch. 5.8

The second pitch is a little better. Climb into the dihedral, through a bush of two, and undercling around a small roof. The undercling moves are fun, but there is enough lichen crunchin' under your toes to steal some joy. Belay in a comfy spot below the summit cracks. 5.8+

The third pitch can have many options, and they are all pretty good. There are at least three good cracks to use from the ledge. The best is the obvious handcrack avove the belay. Beyond this handcrack, follow moderate slabby terrain to the top of the rock. 5.9

I found an old nut with chewed up webbing at the top. I added a couple nuts and a sling of my own to rap off to a large ledge to the West. Two ropes will reach the ground off the steep backside as well.

This is a delicate and technical route from the bottom up.  The crux lies somewhere in the lower half, but where depends upon the climber's style.

The Gillett book suggests that there is a fixed stopper on the route in the long but moderate runout between the 3rd and 4th bolts (ground-fall possible), but there is not presently one there. I would have been happier were I carrying some cams or stoppers from 3/4" - 2" and placed some gear.

Done as a single pitch to the anchor, this is simply a good route that needs a little more brushing/cleaning.  Done to the top of the rock, this is an adventure climb. The route description, rating, and gear are all accounting for that. If you can not abide by lichen, some minor runouts, wide sections, a little loose rock here and there, and some indistinct terrain, you'll hate it.

If you regularly do FAs or alpine routes, you likely won't notice or mind the detractors and might give it one more star than I did, so as to fall in the center of what might be highly polarized opinions about this route.

To climb this route:

P1. (5.9, PG-13, 90') Start just right of

Petticoat

and down and right of its P1 top anchor. Start up on double cracks with join after a short while, then step left into a crack with a flake in it (crux, a noisy flake), and delicately climb past into thin hands jams and better protection. Climb this more enjoyable crack for a while on good rock and protection... before it degrades into a lichenous and slightly more difficult to protect affair. If the second would bring a brush or scraper, this whole affair could be made nicer in the future. Climb to the ledge directly or place protection and carefully step left to finish the last few feet as for '

Thunderstruck

' and go to the

Thunderstruck

/

Petticoat

anchors and belay. There will be rope drag if you try to continue, but it is possible and with correct rigging of the rope, reasonable to do P2 as part of P1.

P2. (5.8+, 80', PG-13): Ascend a few shallow cracks and seams up a rib of rock left of the obvious gully. The climbing is easy for the first 60'. As a large protrusion on the buttress to the right appears, step right past some bushes and into some flakes and make your way past #3 Camalot and a 1/2" cam (green Alien?) through some funky 5.8+ stuff an onto a sloping ledge. A belay comes from one each 2, 2.5, and 3" cams.

Do not skip this belay.

P3. (5.9+, 130' PG-13): From the belay, work out and right past a horizontal (good pro) and into a corner just out of view. Pass an old raven's nest (2' stick pile), and place a 5" cam overhead and out right. Make sure it is solid. Now climb a 'classic' 5.9+ section of rock that will likely be rattly fists, or stacks, to reach through the roof and up into... the offwidth. If you brought a #5 C4 Camalot, get that out and start using it. If you didn't... well, it's only 5.8 O.W.

Climb up and onward. You can finish either left of the gully, or right of it. Protection and climbing moves either way are moderate.

From the top left, a short section of climbing (belay recommended for both parties) reaches the anchor that the right finish goes directly too, although by a wandering path.

To descend:

1) Rap directly off of the back of the rock from the sling anchor (length unknown) and bushwhack back to the base somehow.

2) Rap Westward from the sling anchor (newly replaced 4/2012) for 34 meters (a 70m rope is really recommended) to a good ledge that is considerably west of the initial rap. The rope pulls easily to here. A 5 meter section of 3rd class takes you down and Eastward to a second sling/horn rap (newly replaced as of 4/2012). Rap down that for 35 meters (70m rope REQUIRED) into a deep and mossy gully to a bushy shelf. Pull the rope there and downclimb 4 meters of 5.4 to the ground proper. You are 40 meters West of the base of the climb now.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in The Throne