This route is not as hard as it looks from the ground. It is well protected, secure, and is on solid stone. Other than Cellbound, it is the best route on this formation.

About 50' down and left of the previously established routes on this face, is a steep brown wall with several crack systems. Climb up a solid "bowl" to reach the bottom of a crack, perhaps 3 meters off of the ground. Set solid pro in the finger crack and climb it up and right onto some flakes and features, while the crack gets wider.  Continue up past a few 5.8 moves to the top of the wall. To descend go to the summit and off, or simul-rap from a solid horn as we did (it rained on us and so we hurried down).

Margarita Crack

Cellbound

Jail Bound

Gaucho and Crusader

Dixie Chicken

A Snitch In Time

Jailhouse Chimney

Cell Break

Jail Break

Cellbound ascends the arete at the right side of Jailhouse Rock (more or less).  Start on a crystal protrusion around the corner, ascend a short dike and thin crack to an extremely low-angle lieback that continues to the summit.

Vogel and Bartlett both rate this a 5.5, and Vogel gives it two stars.  Personally, I thought it was a worthless piece of crap climb that wasn't worth the 3 minute approach.  We climbed it the same day as Right On (also 5.5) on Saddle Rocks, and this is a MUCH easier climb -- if Right On is a 5.5, then this is 5.3 or 5.4 at most.

Ramp to the right of the start of Jailbreak leads to this crack.  Follow crack up, then, as it thins out (place good pro!) make a reachy face move to the horizontal crack break.  Step up onto the horizontal break, maybe a bit to the right, then, follow arete to the top just left of the finish of Cellbound.

Fairly fun diversion which is a little harder and a bit more spicy than the standard routes.

Nice location!

A short but interesting face with nice patina edges.

This is an easy, low-angled crack that faces south and is fairly obvious when in the vicinity.

This route is a little awkward and burly, not necessarily because of the moves required, but rather for the moves you will "probably" be making in distrust and avoidance of certain grainy features. 15 meters left of the left edge of the west face...15 meters left of Cellbound, that is, is a bulge/roof with a left-facing corner and overhead crack present to climb through it. Climb up and over this with the crux being the obvious roof. Watch for loose grains that might spit a foot or hand off.

Descend by climbing up and south over the summit to one of the two possible scrambles that lead down.

Climb up a 3rd class slab, onto large blocky terrain that leads into a short chimney.

Easily used as a down-climb for the formation.

Climb up the main crack splitting the face between Jailbreak and Cellbound.  At the junction where the cracks split, take the right hand version in the right facing corner crack.

At the top of the crack, step back to the left and milk the low angle face moves up to the right side of the horizontal break (good protection option) then up the final arete to the summit.

Nice moves, with, some crack and fun face climbing up fairly solid features.

This route is a mellow climb to warm up on or solo as it's relatively secure and straight forward. A few meters left of Cell Bound (arete on the upper right side of the west face) there is a large right-facing corner.Climb up into this and follow it to the top of the rock, then go up over the summit to a downclimb E or W, either one of which requires a few heads up scramble moves harder than the climb itself...!

Description

Protection

Routes in Jailhouse Rock