Start 15' left of Virgin Thing by climbing a large tree for 12-15', plug some gear and climb into a large hueco. Exit the hueco left and follow holds up and slightly trend right to a stance. From stance, follow line of least resistance and gear as you will eventually finds holds but dwindling pro.  From here you'll need a blue slider or possibly fiddle small brass, while running it out (5.9) till the slab meets steeper, colorful rock.  From here get great pro and follow good jugs with the occasional horizontal cam until you find yourself under the large capped roof. From here, get pro and traverse right out roof and pull over on top the cliff, slinging a tree for an anchor.  This route is not entirely straight forward, and will challenge the aspiring 5.10 leader.  It is an amazing route, minus the tree shucking one must do to gain the route and is not to be missed for anyone who is searching for moderate, off the beaten path routes.  Plus, you won't have to wait in line for the other neighboring classics.

Mowed Out Mama

Black and Tan

May the 4th Be With You

The Tide

Fantasy Face

Erotica

Virgin Thing

Blackhappy

Mr. Fantasy

Rebel Spade

Doce Doe

Riddle

The Orgasmatron

Jet Cap

Fantasy

Aesthetica

New Fangled Dangle

The Stick

Two-Step Arete

Great and sustained climbing in the hand/finger crack inside an orange right-facing corner. Laybacks, some stemming, and traverse through the roof in the end. Crack accepts solid pro. Beautiful looking route.

Begin by climbing up a left leaning weakness left of Two Step arete. Climb slightly back right to a stance before the route becomes more vertical. Follow juggy features and good pro until the climbing and pro begins to change in difficulty abruptly (crux). From here negotiate less than ideal pro and do hard moves to gain a body length or so distance above your gear. From here make a few moves left traversing to a silver master cam gear placement followed by a 1" cam placement enroute to the Riddle anchors. You can also climb straight up from the crux to top out the cliff but there is room for big fall potential and the climbing is a bit harder.

Although technically in the Fantasy area, this climb is actually 2 roofs to the Right of the Fantasy Roof.

P1: Climb the dihedral until you hit the roof. ... Traverse left (for about 30 feet) until you come to a small triangle ledge and belay at the bolts.

P2: Climb up and around the arete to finish.

Having a double rope setup would be REALLY nice on this climb.

This route can be a bit dirty if it hasn't been climbed in a while, however it has some fun moves.  This can also be easily top roped from the anchors above Fantasy.  To lead this route, many of the more strenuous moves are above the bolts and off to the side of them.  To start, climb up a broken crack system gain an open book of sorts to reach the 2nd bolt.  From here head up and slightly right over some strenuous thin face moves to reach a nice jug below the 3rd bolt (crux).  From here, diagonal up and left passing 3 more bolts with slab moves.  The last bolt is pretty far from the previous bolt, however the climbing in this section is significantly easier.

This excellent, over-looked line climbs just as good as it looks, and lacks the tiresome slab cruxes of many Endless Wall 5.12s.

Scramble up the start of Doce Doe to a reach a big ledge and an airy traverse left to the high first bolt.  Follow incut jugs up the orange wall to a good stance below a pair of vertical edges.  Balance your way over this section to more good holds and easy slabbin to the roof.  Get Gunky, crank over the thrilling ceiling, and try to hang on to the anchor.

Upon inspection any climber will be drawn to the top of this route. As you gaze up you will be immediately drawn to a  striking, orange finger crack that starts under a horizontal roof and continues for another 10 feet up overhanging rock.  With that said, the rest of the climb is characterized by mediocre climbing. Expect long runouts between bolts down low where the climbing is easy.

Same start as black and tan but traverse in from the right to the first bolt. Crimp your way through some heinously small holds with a few NRG lock-offs. Once you clip the third bolt the crux is done with however, there are still some moves for the next two bolts that will keep you thinking. After you clip the fifth bolt the route eases up a little until you hit the roof. I have seen many people fly off from above the last bolt. It's really not that hard. Full on beta spray is in the comments for it.

CLASSIC!!

Approach this classic pitch by climbing the obvious hand crack (Fantasy) to a bolted station up and left of the tat anchor directly above Fantasy. Climb up and right off the belay to gain a fixed wire of some sort then surf up and left clipping bolts. This route offers some really good exposure and cool moves out horizontals and crimps. There is a rusty old chain anchor at the top of the climb. One 60 meter rope will see you to the ground.

This route features surprisingly good movement on good rock and deserves more traffic than it seems to get. The climb begins with a bouldery sequence in a shallow dihedral to establish on a blunt arete. The rest of the climb consists of classic heady slab climbing to fight your way to each bolt until the terrain becomes more featured at the top.

The climb is well-bolted, with a clipping stance at each bolt to keep the slab-terror at bay. And the rock is cleaner than expected at the top, as you don't have to scrabble around the crinkly lichen that you typically run into at the top of many other NRG climbs.

This is a good 5.12 option if you want to escape the crowds that take over the left side of the Fantasy Area around Blackhappy.

Climb the right facing dihedral/ramp to anchor slings (5.6). Lower here or pull a two tiered roof system to the top (5.9).

***Warning: This description includes route beta that will ruin an onsight attempt. Don't be an elitist though, read the description! :)***

The book calls this 5.10c but I give it 5.12! I thought it was harder than Aesthetica. Granted, it's nothing like Aesthetica, but I make the comparison because Aesthetica is so close. This route has a 5.10 start up to the first bolt. As you work up to the second bolt there's a horizontal crack where it's highly recommended you place a cam. Then figure out how to get the hold next to the 2nd bolt. This was the crux for me. I'm 5'6" and I absolutely COULD NOT reach that hold, especially using skills a 5.10 climber would need. My 5'11" friend really had to stretch to reach it. This move is very height dependent and leads me to believe Steve Cater is 7' tall. Once you get the hold, move left and mantle up and climb to the ledge. Climb up to clip the third bolt and easier 5.10 or 5.9 climbing gets you to the fourth and 5th bolt. Here's another crux, but this is much easier to figure out. However, I would think it's more like an 11a/b crux than 10c. You need really high feet and no fear of falling. Anyway, once you get the 6th bolt clipped you're home free. Clip the next 2 bolts and you're at the anchor.

A stone's throw climber's right of Fantasy.  This route starts behind a detached block which you'll scamper up and behind to begin.  For full credit one must start in the bowels of the abyss, but it is most customary to start on a ledge, mid-height behind the detached block. Make bouldery moves out the initial steep section to gain a nice stance at the base of the left-slanting splitter crack.

It's possible to backclean your first piece of protection through the steep section to minimize rope drag.  From here, figure out how to enter the crack and climb it to its end, gaining another rest stance. Years ago there was a tat anchor here, but as of a few years ago, I believe NRAC member Milky Williams installed an anchor at the top of the cliff, making for fifty feet more of good climbing and an exciting finish!

Don't let the sub par rock keep you from the superb top! There are several cruxes, if there isn't chalk on the line you will have a very hard time finding the path of least resistance. The redpoint crux is from the 5th bolt to the chains, there are a few ways to finish the 6th bolt to chains. Figure out the one that works best for you!

The obvious hand crack that heads straight up the Fantasy roof area.

15 feet of semi-awkward face and crack climbing leads to a nice long splitter with bomber jams, great rest stances and good holds both in and out of the crack.

This route is outstanding! If you do 5.11c, do this route!  Start by climbing straight up on vertical rock to reach a bulge.  From here, diagonal up and right following very chalked holds aiming for a 1 ft wide ledge about 20 ft up from the bulge.  This section is the crux.  From this ledge continue up and right for a few moves and then it begins to diagonal up and left toward the shuts.  Although the crux is over once you reach the ledge, there's still a move that will get your attention with the bolt well below you.  This climb has interesting moves from start to finish!

Acute dihedral that starts from low roof. Start is wide and burly. The route arches up and left through the gorgeous dihedral. Anchors were recently added.

You'll most likely want to stick clip the first bolt. Start by using a large undercling and muscle off the ground through the low roof. The arete stays engaging for a couple of bolts with a crux coming as you move onto the left face. Climbing is easier for a few bolts as you continue up the face until the arete ends and you head toward the right side of the 3 ft wide overhang. Hand traverse under the overhang and pull it on the left side. Engaging climbing on high quality lighter stone brings a little pump before the anchors.

This route would benefit from more traffic, however it's not recommended unless you very proficient with placing gear and solid at the grade. A bit dirty, the top has lots of lichen. Start on the left of the arete. Climb up on this side until it's easier to be on the right. Continue up to reach a roof about 20ft from the top. Stay to the right of the arete, get some good gear(it's your last pro until the top), and pull the overhang heading for a tree. The gear is pretty tricky for the first 40 ft or so, after that it becomes more obvious. Take the placements when you get them. Interesting route for the grade!

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in M) Fantasy Area