This route follows the East face of the Unicorn for the first 200 feet. After this easy warm up, you will have to move South (left) and climb a very exposed ramp on the South side of the rock that parallels the East face.

The crux is found in the initial 30 feet of the ramp where it thins out and the overhang above you is pushing towards the Red Devil some 60 feet below. Negotiate this section and romp up to the summit.

Descent - downclimb from the summit block to the East, and head Northwest down a broken section of rock.

South East Ridge/Unicorn

East Overhang

This climb starts at the Southern end of the Unicorn, as for the SE Arete for about 150 feet.  Follow that route to a rounded ledge below an overhang, where the SE arete goes south to a ramp at the overhang.  Rather than go left and onto the sub-ramp of this Flatiron as for the original route, go up and right to a flake and a large horn of rock to the right in the middle of the overhang.  Undercling and grasp good knobs to pull through the roof and establish yourself above this, then continue up the 5.4 face above this directly on the East Face proper to the summit.

Description

Protection

Routes in Unicorn