Secret Slab

Gemini Cracks

Goinggoinggone

Centerfire

Right Jewel of Mr. Texas

Left Jewel of Mr. Texas

Backbone of the West

Terminus

Obscured By Cloud

Smirk

The Seldon Plan

Rimfire

Big Pink

The Brown Arete

Foundation

Cock the Hammer

Stiff Upper Lip

Empire

Time and Materials

The Lathe of Heaven

Cornered and Cleaved

A nice finger jamming exercise.  Start up a finger crack that soon fades out.  Move left on nice holds into the upper finger crack to a bolted anchor at top.

On the highest, tallest slab in this group, this is on the left side of the slab following a thin crack.

Up on the cube at the Sanctuary. This is the rightmost wall. There is a very hard iron cross move between bolts 2 and 3, moving to the right.  Next you climb up amazing crimps following a seam.  The last move to the lip of the boulder is desperate. Another high quality pitch.

Right route on the Cube slab.  A bit runout after the last bolt, but the climbing is easy.

Leftmost route on the Cube Boulder.  It has a hard opening move protected by a stick-clipped first bolt.  The rest is fun reaches to big crimps and rails.

Set back in the alcove, this is an obvious bolted arete going up black and white streaked rock.  Continuous thoughtful movement.  The crux is at about two thirds height, but this one is pretty sustained technical climbing throughout.

Follows a black arete passing 7 bolts. A roof at mid height provides the crux.  Not amazing and there is a reason that the rock is black.  It may have something to do with the water that often runs down the face.

Red slab route that faces up canyon.  Crux is at the 3rd or 4th bolt, with a cool hand switch/reach through move.  There is an upper pitch to this route and a crack to its left that shares the anchor with this route.

Leftmost route on the wall.  Has a hard crux after the second bolt.  Not the greatest warm-up.  This route shares its start with the 5.13a to its right.

Right of Empire. Mostly good holds and interesting movement.  Good warm up for the cliff.

Steep arete on the Cube Boulder.  Left hand slaps the arete, left foot heel hooks, right hand and foot work small crimps.  Really fun.  The crux comes right before the last bolt, but really this is like roped bouldering.  This is my personal favorite route at the Sanctuary.

Stellar 4" splitter that climbs up a right facing dihedral, before blasting right on an ultra classic bolted traverse. Don't pull too hard on the loose blocks ;) enjoï! Shares anchors with Obscured by cloud / Nimbus.

"Life as a shorty shouldn't be so rough" - Wu Tang Clan

Goes up an arete on brown rock.  Third from the left.  Not sure of the name.  Hard the whole way and kind of insecure.  It isn't run out but feels that way due to the strange and sometimes nonexistent feet.

Second from the left on the most featured wall in the Sanctuary. This wall is the most set forward and is to your right from the approach trail. One of the best 5.12s in Lander, according to the first ascensionist.

The crux comes between bolt two and three, several options all involving laybacking and high feet. The rest of the climb is sustained 5.11 and 5.12 moves with okay rests. Cool holds and movement. Just wish it were longer.

just to the right of "Cornered and Cleaved", corner, face and lieback moves to finger crack and face exit, bouldery and technical at spots

Shares start with the 5.11c that is the leftmost route on this wall.  Follows bolts to the right from the start, up through a small roof and then following a seam.  Sequential and hard to read.  Really good climbing.  Crux is passing the roof on a really crappy sidepull with less than inspiring feet.  The upper bit past the roof climbs like a dream, interesting moves with intricate feet.

Right of Foundation.  More rests than that route and not quite as classic, but still certainly worth doing.  There is an optional all points off dyno between bolt 1 and 2.  Go a bit left after the last bolt.

Leftmost route on the Foundation Wall.  Hard crux between bolt 2 and 3, then slacks off after bolt 4.  Not as high quality as the 2 routes to the right, but the crux is really cool.

Cool looking feature, but doesn't climb as well as I had hoped.  Cruise up 3 bolts of a slab to a tiered roof with 4 more bolts.  The business is leaving the slab to get established on the arete of the roof.  Bolt 4, the first one clipped before launching out onto the steep stone, is hard to clip.  Follow good holds on pumpy rock from here to an anchor on a ledge up high.

Rightmost route on the Cube boulder.  Finishes on Centerfire.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in The Sanctuary