This route has a fun crux overhang with a clean finger crack above.

Chicken Mechanics

Blackheart

Lewis Black

Pacific Avenue Dorm

Pitch Black

Pacific Heights

Fryer Flyers

Blackjack

Blackout

Powdered Toast Man

Holiday In The Sun

My Friends Treat Me Like a Mushroom

Blackheads

Poultry Pilots

An OK route that makes a good warm-up. Start in the low-angle slot on good rock and good pro to go up to a small shrub on the climb.  Look right to see a bolt on the face to the right and clip that.  Climb up and right past that bolt (crux) to continue up the face, wandering around for the best holds and eventually left, for the second bolt and finish, or to the right to join Chicken Mechanics (more trad gear).  The route is a reasonable warm up and fin overall.

This along with

Blackout

are located on the nice looking "3-tiered" face on the far left side of the Ken Black formation.  Easily visible from the road.  This is the lefthand line passing a couple of bolts to a two bolt anchor/rap

Start about 100 feet left of Blackout on a separate formation that faces the road. Climb a left facing corner/crack system past the left edge of a ceiling to the top.

an excellent clean steep face with good protection.  It is on a north-facing wall, and is usually in the shade

Start off a large grey knob and climb the face parallel to

Pacific Avenue Dorm

.

A so-so hand crack. This route gets little or no morning sun.

7 bolt sport climb between Pitch Black and Holiday in the Sun.

This along with

Blackheart

are located on the nice looking "3-tiered" face on the far left side of the Ken Black formation. Easily visible from the road. This is the righthand line passing a couple of bolts to a two bolt anchor/rap

Crux down low with little to no pro on poor quality rock.  On TR some rock broke off so best to do this as a TR problem

a fairly nice, runout face climb that gets morning sun  The bulge at the bottom is apparently 5.11, and not on the route.

Go up the stair like blocks until you can bust out right onto the first good patina you see.  Head up and right to a high first bolt.  A couple of grainy step ups will get you to the next bolt.  Trend left and up into a layback crack.  Pro might be available in the horizontals and the crack.  A cleaner top out is the crack just to the right that is Blackheart.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Ken Black Memorial Dome