Start on obvious holds at about chest level on the far right side of the face containing Sudden Fear, and go up using good jugs.  The crux is a tricky top-out, but overall this problem is a little easier than its neighbor to the left.

Nightmare Alley

Hamburger Heaven

Desperate Hours

Worst Idea Of The Century Crack

Windwalker

Meilee

Breathless

13 Men

Faided, Fat, Greedy Woman

Moon River

Sudden Fear

Ace in the Hole

She had nothing to do with it

For those of you who A) are bored, B) nursing a grudge against Tom Randall and Peter Whittaker, or C) like crack climbing, then this (ahem) gem is for you!

Part of an "offwidth-roof circuit" at Lizard's Mouth (email me if you are interested), this line suffers through a roof-crack created by two boulders, a la Vedauwoo. Fairly painful, and definitely worth a roll of tape.

I didn't feel right about giving any stars to this problem, but I had a great time thrutching. You decide.

Follow a series of decent hand jams up until the crack levels out horizontally. Continue up for an awkward top out.

Start in the jugs of Sudden Fear and traverse up and right into Nightmare Alley to summit.  The traverse is the crux and is of varying difficulty depending on how high you go before heading right.

Start low in the small alcove with two edges close to each other. Negotiate your way to the arete to climber's right, and compress your way to victory using holds on the arete and the obvious water runnel.

In a nice, relatively secluded spot. Great fun.

If anyone has info for this problem, please share. I'm sure it's been done before.

One of the classics of the area.  Sustained and pumpy.

Left to right is V3.  Right to left is V4.

Start off using a couple of good left hands around the corner and small dishes on the face.  Once you get your right hand onto the knob, get ready to commit and high step onto the face.  The moves really aren't that hard, but you have to commit to some slopey holds once you're high enough that a fall would be unpleasant.

Start in the back right corner of the cave. Move out and over the lip using huge edges and plates.

Exit the cave on a series of challenging slopers.

Vertical crack running up the side of the boulder. It has a few good spots for hand jams and the occasional fist jam. Turns into an off-width towards the top out.

Start on the jugs just left of center of the boulder, and go straight up.  The easier climbing down low lures you in before a higher crux and a heady (but not too difficult) top-out.

Straight out of the Meilee cave on secure finger locks.

Located just right of "Faided, Fat, Greedy Woman"

Sit-start under the steep arete just left of Sudden Fear.  Make a few powerful moves to get established on a crimp just right of the arête, set up, and throw for a dish around the corner.  If I ever stick that move I'll add more details about the summit.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Meilee Area