Start just right of Gargling Vinegar, passing 3 bolts to the obvious large ledge below the roof.  Clip the last bolt and venture out left on exposed rock to the anchors.

Neon Leprechaun

Ambition is Critical

Citizens Against Spiders

The Spice of Life

The Cleaning Lady

The Pansy

Temporary Insanity

Dirty Luck

Eyeless in Gaza

Boys-r-Blue

Sperm Whale

Whimper

Macabre Roof

Two Studs

Jen's Dilemma

Terminal Hypocrisy

Whitehead Crack

Rock Hudson

Hershey Squirt

The Pansy - Direct

The Industrial Age

Spasm

Wimp Roof

Gargling Vinegar

Holiday in Cambodia

Tin Man

Lichen Lunch

Raisin the Titanic

The Scream

Whaleback Crack

Basalt Somersault

Short dihedral with easy stemming up to an anchor below a roof.  A nice climb to set up as a toprope for less experienced climbers.

Start by climbing a broken pillar to a high first bolt.  Continue up a dihedral, clipping 2 more bolts, and mantle onto the ledge below the big roof. Clip your last bolt in the bottom of the roof, start traversing left on a juggy slot and snag jugs left of the bolt.  Pull the roof and mantle to the chains (crux).

This dihedral has some fun moves and good pro.

Climb low-5th class, broken rock to a ledge and the first bolt at 15-20'. Clipping this with a long draw will reduce drag. From here, follow the obvious line up increasingly better rock to the 5th and last bolt just above the small roof. Clip this and move straight up, pulling on pockets and edges of varying degrees of positivity to the chains.

The route is a bit contrived as it is possible to use the left arete after the last bolt to bring the route down to .10b as listed in the book. This

involves moving into what I thought to be dangerous fall potential above a broken column top.

If the starting bit of rock and the upper contrivances are disregarded, this thing is pretty good. It protects well (when climbed directly) and the boulder problem at the crux is fun and on great rock.

Go straight up the dihedral.  Using the outer holds lessens the rating a tad from what's in the Epeldi book.

Climbing it as a true crack definitely puts it at 5.8.  Nice double finger length to hand jams at the top of the crack.

Topping out at the chains isn't so obvious, but the hand holds are there.

The first half of this route features easy stemming between good features.  Somewhere around the 3rd bolt the route traverses left and gets a little tricky.  It's all there, but I found it a little hard to figure out the right sequence.

Starts on top of a short pillar.  Work the dihedral up to the cool flake-like feature.  Super fun!

The business end starts off the ground. Use the pockets and small rails to gain the nice finger to hand jam crack.

This is a full value 8 that's more difficult than its neighbor, The Cleaning Lady.

Nice little inside corner to chains. Good pro. No distinct crux but a nice warm up.

Short climb with some fun bouldery moves. Worth checking out.

Climb the obvious column just right of Ambition is Critical (the column that looks like it shouldn't still be standing).  The first bolt is a rusty 1/4", but there's only 3 bolts on the route so you might as well clip it.  Once you get the beta dialed in it's climbable.  Exciting finish... Just give in to the whipper and hope the column still stands.

Clip the first 3 bolts of Wimp Roof and split left, clipping 2 more bolts on the way to the chains. Fun climbing with an exciting finish.

This climb features beautiful double hand cracks that eventually lead up to a roof, which is split in the middle by a crack. In Sandi Epeldi's book the roof is described as "a classic boulder problem in the sky", and I'd have to agree.

Typical Black Cliffs dihedral with a tricky finish through the bulge.  Definitely thought provoking.

This is the third bolted route from the head of East Car Body.  Although this route is fairly short it is a bold lead with widely spaced bolts.  The crux falls around the second bolt.  This route requires good foot work, is thought provoking and you may even get a pump on due to the small side pulls and crimps. Sustained and technical climbing until the third bolt where the route eases up with large jugs to the chains.

Follow the long corner just left of Rock Hudson(11a sport).  The crack is small, so plan accordingly.  Surprisingly hard finish as you work right at the top of the corner.

A fun sport route, this route has a good variety of movement. It starts out with some technical moves off the deck, then some pulling hard on big slopey holds up the arete, followed by some technical stemming back in the dihedral.

This is the first bolted route at the head of East Car Body.  This route is short and blowing the third clip could result in a ground fall.  Not recommended for the faint of heart or inexperienced 5.10 leaders.

This route climbs the double dihedral and roof directly below the anchors for The Pansy, merging with it at the 3rd bolt.  This adds some fun jamming and tricky stemming, you get to bypass the rather easy and boring start of the original Pansy, and you still get to climb the Pansy's crux.  Highly recommended!

Start in the dihedral using a nice handcrack on the right until you reach the roof.  Pull the roof using finger locks and smeary stemming.

After the fun climbing up to and over the roof, climb some loose terrain without protection until you reach the 3rd bolt of The Pansy.  Finish with the tough (interesting) part of The Pansy.

This climb starts on big edges down low, goes up and over a bulgy section, and has a few interesting last moves before the chains. This is one of the easier bolted leads at the cliffs in my opinion.

This is the Hand/Fist width crack a few feet to the right of The Cleaning Lady and Dirty Luck. It shares anchors with those routes. I think I only placed #2s and #3s.

Easy climbing leads to a big roof. Same start as Whimper, go slightly right at third bolt and climb under the roof. Powerful moves and good foot work.

A fun climb up the outside of a narrow column.  Most of the route follows widely spaced jugs using fun moves. After clipping the last bolt, shorter folks will either have to dyno or use small crimps and even smaller feet to reach the finishing jug. Fun!

This route never really gives you much room to breath. The start moves through crimps and rounded off sidepulls leading into an easy runout between bolts 3 and 4 before leaving you empty handed on a blank face between bolts 4 and 5...Oh and the cracks on either side of the column are off limits. Good luck!

A smearing, stemmy sort of route with a couple thoughtful cruxy sections. The cruxes are well protected by bolts. Good footwork is Key.

If you're willing to put up with a junky start, there's a nice left leaning finger and hands crack just right of Whaleback Crack. I recommend starting as for Whaleback crack and then breaking right onto this route vs starting in the next dihedral over. The crack starts very thin, then turns to big/ off fingers, with some hand size pods closer to the anchor.

This route starts out relatively easy, but the crack gets pretty thin about halfway up. It would be pretty hairy without the lone bolt up there. Good quality, with moves that will make you think.

Ascend an obvious dihedral, then follow the crack to climber's left about 30' up. The crack widens to perfect hands near the top, making for an exciting finish.

A very nice dihedral with some great stemming and smearing.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in East Car Body Canyon