I ran out of time on this past trip to clean this rig. Once the moss and lichen are brushed away, this should prove to be a lovely moderate addition to the Swamp Wall.  

  So, grab your wire brushes and go get yourself an FA!

Mothman

Blinded By Psych

Beast of the Bog

Canadian Love Shield

Swamp Foot

Howlin' At The Moon (aka Waiting For Tyler)

Good Omann

Beach Party

Electric Stegosaurus

Dreamt I Was a Dragonfly

The line just to the right of Bad Omann and distinctly more covered in lichen than Bad Omann, still needs some cleaning, but the big loose stuff should have mostly come off by now.  I'd still recommend the belayer wears a helmet just in case.   

  The crux is getting off the raft and onto the wall, especially if you're short.  If you fall before the first bolt, you're likely to get the 'swamp foot'.   

  Solid, easy slab with lots of good feet and mostly big holds and some small crimps.

Jeffs World first ever link-up and the "Business Time" of the Swamp Wall. Desperately established in bug nets during a sand fly infestation of biblical proportions when, as it tend to can happen, one is too psyched to climb even though deep down all the signs point to the obvious choice of staying home.Probably the best overall route at the swamp until Bob Omann finishes his direct finish. This line starts on Beast of the Bog and follows the left angling seam to triangle roof at the top of Electric Stegosaurus. Huge moves down low lead to beta intensive crimping to pull onto the face, with power endurance being the key to success.The traverse after the crux is runout but super easy. Bring one sling for the bolt below the Stegosaurus roof, the rest is perma draws.

If a classic climb contains glorious jug hauling on granite fins and knobs, wild dynamic moves, a techy top to keep life exciting, all done over the water while your buddy belays out of a raft in the Canadian wilderness, then look no further! 

  This excellent line will range in difficulty for folks of different heights, especially because of the opening crux at the second bolt. Those taller than 6 feet could find the given grade soft, those under 5'6" will likely find the route quite rowdy. Regardless, everyone can be guaranteed to be all smiles after this one. And if not, you may want to consider golfing instead.

Formerly known as Canoe Paddle Crutch, the previously dangerous and forced line has gotten some love, was rebolted, and now is an excellent, safe, enjoyable 5.11 at this unique crag.Jugs lead to a technical and crimpy crux at the lip with more easy climbing on improbable features to the top out.

Bolted in the fall of 2016 during "Jeff's World" film shoot.  

  Big holds the whole way.

Traverse left from the raft to the start of the climb. Cleanest route on the wall. Easy climbing on vertical to less than vertical terrain. If you're lucky you'll hear otter grunts echoing out from the underwater cave.

Rightmost route on the wall, starts in a teal lichen streak.  Fun steep climbing through a series of mini roofs on BUCKETS.  I trundled a 300 lb block into the landing (and we have no idea how deep the water is) so be solid at the grade before you decide to solo

Climbs up the center of the swamp wall. An excellent route with two unique cruxes separated by very good rests. Find the improbable hold over the lip of the roof and stay strong for the final punch to the anchors.

Hop off the raft and swim up a nice overhanging juggy section to the 4th bolt. Switch gears and punch it through an intricate crux section pulling onto the vertical wall.

The magical mini kingdom of Swamp Wall: a bog filled with rich moss, carnivorous plants, breathtaking flowers, a deep dark swamp, high quality sport climbing and recently, a Huck Finn style raft to access all routes (complete with hand line to pull raft across the entire cliff!).  

  Swamp Wall provides a unique experience to remember: climbing off of a raft onto beautiful, steep granite, while in the middle of remote Canadian wilderness. TIP: Plan yourself a few late August days here, when the bugs are down and the temps are still warm. You'll smile all day as you swim and climb and soak up the sun.   

  Although all current routes have been Deep Water Soloed (except Mothman and Swamp Monster) and the water at the base has been measured in 5-6 places at around 14'-18' deep, you should remember that this is a Jack Pine Swamp, with dark water. It is difficult to impossible to see what is under the surface. Swim and climb at your own risk! 

  THE CLIMBING is sneaky steep and dynamic, all on great rock. It will be exciting to see further development in the next year or two. 

  THE RAFT and HAND LINE: In the fall of 2015 we built a Huck Finn style raft (S.W. Minnow) to access Swamp Wall routes. After realizing that rowing the raft around can be cumbersome and slow-going, a Hand Line was installed in the fall of 2016. Now you can pull yourself along the cliff at light speed. Currently, the Hand Line spans nearly the entire width of the Swamp Wall, to the base of Howlin' At The Moon (aka Waiting For Tyler), a 5.8 on the left side (as facing the wall) of Swamp Wall. Hand Line bolts have been installed the entire span of the wall, to the back of Swamp Wall (to access Mothman) and are awaiting a generous human to donate old rope, as we ran out during installation.  

  The S.W. Minnow has comfortably held 6 people at once, but I would not recommend many more.  

  Please show your love and respect to the S.W. Minnow and the Hand Line. Park the Minnow where you found her and report any maintenance issues to: tylerstevenhoffart@gmail.com

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Swamp Wall