A loose choss-filled chimney with a gritty friction finish.

Start inside of the chimney near a small protectable crack.  Move deeper into the chimney to get around a constriction (going outside may be possible).  The rock quality here is extremely bad and theres not good protection opportunities for a little bit.  After the constriction theres a small ledge where you can transition to an OK crack, or use wide chimney technique, to a large ledge.  The second, short pitch ascends some terrible quality gritty friction (oxymoron?).  Youll probably have to clean off every feature before planting a foot.  Oh, and there's only one placement opportunity, towards the start of the pitch.

Might be an ok route if it cleans up, a lot.

The Camel

Kate's Bush

Beanie Babies

Lean on Me

Slaughter the Lamb

Ambush

Chestwig

This route features sustained, strenuous liebacking and jams.  It's in a shaded location.

This route is on "Bush Dome" which is right and behind "Mel's Diner". Park at the turnout at "Roadside Rock", and walk a short distance west to the formations. "Kate's Bush" is on the right. You'll see a ledge about 25 feet above. Climb the crack system that takes you to the left side of the ledge. It is probably best to belay here. Then climb the obvious crack above. The lower crack is somewhat grainy and awkward(5.8), and the upper crack is a 5.7- joy.

Pleasant adventurous J Tree climb!

Either go up on the right and go through a bush before traversing left, or undertake an awkward series of jams.  Establish in the obvious hand crack that seems steep for the grade.

Ascend some loose, grainy rock on rounded feet before a horizontal shelf without good pro. Follow the obvious hand crack up and go right as it does.  If you place just before the crack cuts right, make sure to extend long to avoid drag! Being able to hear and be heard by your belayer may be hard at the anchor.

Seems like a series of cruxes exist. Fairly sustained before the very final low angle section.  Likely harder than meets the eye.  But if you know J Tree, that's nothing new, right?

First bolt can easily be clipped by leaning in from the boulder alongside. Battle thru the cruxy thin face (or aid it), to insecure jams in vertical crack (10-).  Then follow angling crack up and right (9+/10-, good gear).

This is a tightly bolted sport climb on the northwest face.

S

equential face climbing up a near-vertical wall with a bunch of tricky moves make this a tough on-sight. An interesting combination of slopers, edges, sidepulls, balancey footwork and a few stout pulls in the mix.

Super-duper well protected at the hard moves.

This aesthetic and exciting climb follows a very thin crack with some face moves; shaded location.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Bush Dome