Early Bird

This Toilet Earth

[Redacted]

Bird Is The Word

Bird Of Prey

Route Stealers From Hell

Too Light To Wait

Eat The Worm

Mud Falcon

Dirty Bird

Wampum

Force Feed

Short and sustained, this route is only 20 feet long, but it is .11a - b the whole way up.  This is the route just around the corner to the right of War Paint (5.9).

There is no crux.  The whole route is tough. 3 bolts of crimpy to pinchy to nonexistant holds on overhung to vertical rock.  Excellent.

Follow a slab for a few bolts, with a low crux moving left around a small roof. Move right towards a blunt arete and pass a couple more small bulges before the anchors.

This route was originally an approach pitch to the Gold Wall, with a long section of run-out, but very easy (low 5th class) climbing to the top anchors. Lower-off anchors have been added at the start of the upper slab and you can now choose to climb just the the vertical section of Toilet Earth (80' to lower-off anchors), or continue up the slab to the Gold Wall anchors (150', 2 rappels with a single rope).

Follow 5 bolts of good climbing in an obtuse dihedral, to a slightly run-out but cruiser and extremely well-featured face with 3 more bolts. This pitch recently had 4 bolts added to it (with permission of the FA), particularly to make the upper face more manageable. Good alternative if Warpath or Warpaint are occupied.

"Trail of Tears" also has a second pitch that clocks in at mid-5.11. Hopefully the 2nd pitch will get more traffic now as well...just make sure to ignore the "false" anchor (see comments section).

Start up an easy pillar past two bolts, then move onto the face. The first crux comes pulling a small bulge at the fourth bolt, followed by a few bolts of slab. Pull another small bulge past the eighth bolt, just before the anchors.

This route was finished just before Thanksgiving, hence the name.

Sustained crimping on left leaning arete.  The first bolt is in a strange location.

Past the Big Chief-center wall's cave area and around a corner you will notice a large water stain extending to the ground (the route running up this stain is called Wampum, 5.7). The next set of bolts to the right is Route Stealers From Hell.

Climb a face with small holds with a crux around the first bolt. After the initial crux, climbing gets easier for the last few bolts.

This route is probably named because people wanting to warm up on War Path (5.9) located around the corner towards the cave from this route, found someone on the route.

This is probably one of the better warmups if the easier climbs are being used.

verticle crimping up face.  If you go left on the arete at the top bolt, it's 10b.  If you stay on the face and go directly to the anchors it's 11a.

Start in the same dihedral as "Trail of Tears", then quickly move left.  Follows a line up jugs, to a layback flake, to nice edges on the face.

Short but enjoyable route on big edges and crimps, with a cool pocket thrown in for good measure. The crux is between bolts 2 and 3 where the feet thin out.

After walking past the cave area and around a corner, you will find a large dark water stain on the rock, which has a set of bolts running up the left side of it.

Using the initial crack, climb up the water stain and onto a short face to the anchor above.  The initial crack is an excellent learning tool for people needing to learn new moves at an easy grade of climbing.

A top rope can be set with minimal rope drag from to top anchors, though someone must first lead the route to accomplish this.

The notably overhung climb located right of the easily-recognized Wampum, which ascends the water stained slight dihedral. Climb up a steep face with slick feet to the first bolt just beneath the roof, then pull the roof and continue up past another 3 bolts on easier climbing.

The rock through the first few bolts is very sharp, not the best climb for early in your day

Early Bird

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Mini Buttress