A fantastic line involving big moves between poop slopers, finishing with a dynamic move to a pinch.  An absolute blast.  Start matched on the obvious jug.  Pretty straightforward at first blush, but I found it to be surprisingly technical.  Originally rated v11, which is a bit of a stretch, but I've heard it called v9, too, which is a stretch, also.  I gave it what seems to be the consensus grade of 10 from people who have sent it because it feels that way to me and because I have paid the price in the amount of skin I lost working this thing and sliding off the slopers...

Whatever the case may be, this is a super fun problem worth doing any time you're in the area.

Musashi

Smokestack Lightnin

Dire Wolf

I absolutely loved this problem.  You begin on smallish edges, traverse left, and make a long reach to a good hold.  At this point, you are hanging over what feels like a bramble filled abyss.  A fall wouldn't be terminal, but you certainly wouldn't want to do it.

As you get higher, moves get a bit harder, and the delicate mantle in the no-fall zone is great fun.  It seems to be rarely climbed, so expect to find a little dust on it, but I thought it was pretty clean regardless.

Small crimps lead to an incut jug and committing mantle.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Musashi boulder