Loose holds at bottom. Rating maybe harder depending on what has broken.

Teenage Parties

Dude Where's My Hammer

Die Hard

How to Counter Your Apprehension

Pearl

War on Rugs

About Face

Grass Attack

Sunday Mass

Nudity

Mona Pelagrosa

Apprehension

T. Parties one removed

Peligrosa Right

Ant Encounters

All Hail Broke Loose

Similar to Teenage Parties: hard moves on sharp and hollow holds leads to easy face.

Starts right of the hackberry tree at the base of the wall. High start leads to good holds up to the bulge. Pulling the bulge is the crux. I have a hard time saying this is 11b (feels like 10d/11a) but that's what it says in the book.  

  Get on this and boost that ego!

Fun bottom start, climbs up to dihedral. Finishes right as the fun part begins.

Good warmup for this area. Start on Ant Encounters, but at first bolt head towards the left bolt line and finish in Apprehension.

Left side of War on Rugs wall, but not the right side of House of Pain (why are they separate walls i don't know, crankenstein too). Start on a boulder that usually has some cheat stacks. Pull through a small overhang crux, and then it's over. Quite enjoyable to the top. There may or may not be poison ivy on this route.

Difficult, powerful crux right at the start with another tough section near the top.

Start on the right end of Pearl's low landing boulder, just left of the chossy low profile tufa. Bolt 1 is up and left of the choss area.

First bolt is below the diagonal right leaning ledge. Starts on cheater stack.

Fairly sustained/consistent, crux coming off of the diagonal traverse onto the vertical ascent to the anchors. First move from starting stance to a high right jug pocket may be the crux for shorter climbers. Handholds follow the diagonal ledge and are pretty solid. Right arm gets worked a lot harder than the left.

Route is located immediately left of Ant Encounters. For a face climb, this route has a variety of holds and features. Climb crimps, pockets, and jugs to a smooth face under a rounded ledge below the anchors.

Climb to Mona Peligrosa's first bolt, then cut right on jugs running it out quite a ways to bolt 2 (ground fall if you mess up this 5.7 climbing or something breaks on you). Crux is between bolt 2 and anchors.

 Guidebook says "12b?" so I'm guessing the grade was a loose suggestion. Felt not much harder than Mona Peligrosa to me, possibly still the same grade. Personally I'd suggest 11d/12a.

Bottom starts on sharp, defined crimps. Crux is above bolt 4.

First crux starts from the deck. Boulder start from two head height jugs. Continues up into easier climbing with a good rest about 3/4 up the wall. Second crux is the sequence to the anchors on small pockets and sharp half-pad crimps.

Open area after House of Pain and just before Crankenstein. Mostly moderate climbs.

Description

Protection

Routes in War on Rugs Wall