5.7 jugs to the high first bolt, and then increasingly cryptic slopey holds through a slabby finish. Harder than it looks and similar to Locumba (to the right).

Locumba

Narcissus

Bushman

Ectomorph Arete

Suicide Throat Link-Up

Narcissus Direct

Jeff's Bunny Hop

Smilin' Jack

Project

Hang On Little Tomato

Sniff the Drill

Suicide Blonde

Chatt Steal (open) project

That Eight

That Nine

Deep Throat

Simple Minds

Hokey Pokey

Pull on some flakes to get into the (wet?) crack, then follow it up as the plates turn to slopers.

Description provided courtesy of Ladd Raine:

A truly memorable and classic climb!

Start in a short low angle dihedral that has a crack that seeps forever after it rains. Make a few moves into a no-hands rest, clip your bolt and start the pumpy section of the climb, the rest of it! Using jugs, and big crimps make the traverse quickly clipping as you go. Breathe and then get ready for the meat of the route, make a long reach off of some crimps (shorter climbers sometimes dyno, sometimes use a bad intermediate), then grab the big rounded lip, traverse out onto the arete bear hug it and get up a heel, make the hardest clip of your life, then grab some jugs and fight the pump for the last 30 feet of this climb. Beware the pump crux--- Clipping the chains!

This climb is rated 5.12a, although I give it a 12a/b because I've never felt so worked after any other 12a, yet it isn't a technically demanding as many 12bs I've been on.

The arete just left of Narcissist is easily overshadowed by its more famous neighbor but if you find yourself in the area you should give this line a chance. Bouldery moves give way to a good rest. From the rest you have to negotiate one more hard move and then keep it together for the chalkless roof/face above. It only had one usable anchor as of 6/7/12 so I advise heading over Smiling Jacks anchor to lower and clean draws from.

Climb Suicide Blonde to the rest and finish on the top of Deep Throat.

Start on the pockets immediately left of the short dihedral start of Narcissus, work the sequetial pocket moves up to the middle of the traverse of

Narcissus

. Then, using jugs, and big crimps make the traverse quickly clipping as you go. Breathe and then get ready for the meat of the route, make a long reach off of some crimps (shorter climbers sometimes dyno, sometimes use a bad intermediate), then grab the big rounded lip, traverse out onto the arete bear hug it and get up a heel, make the hardest clip of your life, then grab some jugs and fight the pump for the last 30 feet of this climb. Beware the pump crux--- Clipping the chains!

Slightly better than its neighbors on this wall.

Very popular.  Get there early on a busy weekend for a quick warm up or else risk waiting in line.

Work your way up the nice face past a slightly blanker section about 15 feet up (crux), then up slightly easier rock to the anchors.

Start by climbing the right leaning finger crack to eventually gain a stance above the 2nd bolt (crux).  Continue up to the overhang and traverse a bit right.   Follow a flake system straight up and then diagonal up and left toward the shuts.  The upper portion is often wet and may be a bit dirty from run off, but this climb is well worth doing.   Nice moves, especially in the crack section at the bottom.

The bottom face tends to stay choss, however the roof above is solid, strong climbing! The initial crux is in the first roof off of the face, thin crimps lead to a desperate foot cut or interesting foot/finger jam to avoid cutting your feet. The climbing between the first and final roof is cruiser, the final roof has some heinous moves- work on your trad technique- once you are hanging from your hand on the head wall you have it bagged!

This route has very old bolts and hangers, hopefully these will be replaced in the coming year.

This route could also be done on gear.

Follow the wet mossy crack in the back left of the cave up until it reaches the shallow ledge and crack system at the roof, lower here or continue the arch down to the far right corner of the cave ending on the ground. Dirty feet and wet hand jams lead into questionable rock quality and tenuous feet. An adventure!

Work your way past an awkward slick (and often wet) spot (crux), then up easier rock on large holds to the anchors.

A nice warm-up and immensely popular.  Get there early on a nice weekend.

This is the rightmost of two steep, usually perma-drawed sport lines that go up the right side of the Narcissus Cave.  It was recently rebolted with new beefy 1/2 inchers.  Start with some sequential, reachy arete moves (the same moves that the 11d "Simple Minds" starts with).  After the first bolt, make a left traverse to a good jug, then make some cool roof moves straight up.  The crux involves some big moves, bouldering power, and one drilled pocket.

Stick clip first bolt of deep throat and climb the initial jug rail of deep throat clipping a 2nd independent bolt line out left. Climb a powerful v5 Boulder to a jug rail (skip 3rd working bolt for rope drag) and rail out left to a lip turn to get established in a rest position in a right facing corner. Climb corner for a move then bust up and left through some classic 5.12 pockets to a second v5/6 dead point at full extension to some good edges. More 5.12 steep jugs gets you to the final crux tier. The route has been freed up to here at 5.13-, but the final boulder is v hard on bullet grey stone. Finish the rest of the route on positive pad edges to anchor. Make sure to use long slings on most bolts to manage drag. Please let me know if anyone frees the final boulder problem.

Start on some small holds move up to an undercling and pull the rest of the enjoyable moves on this grea climb.

Awesome Warm-up/Beginner route.

If you like slopers, this is the route for you! Cruise past juggy plates to the first bolt. Now balance your way up past a few more bolts on slopey holds and to the anchors. Trickier than it looks from the ground!

Steep Roof traverse to a pretty good rest then into a crux involving a mono then stabbing up into a little bat cave undercling then dyno to huge jug.

An enjoyable varied route that seems to get overlooked quite a bit.

Work through a powerful and engaging boulder problem right off the ground to the second bolt, then switch gears and apply some balance and technique as you move up the face above.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Narcissus Cave