Sit for Tim the Wizard.

Right hand on an awful sloper with a thumb catch that does most of the work, left hand compressing on a slimper. Giant foot for your right down low.

Find something to heel hook with your left foot, then fire up left hand to the shared stand start to all these problems. Find a way to match the right, then do the rest.

Tim the Wizard (sit)

Service

French Maid

Ameliorated Anomoly

Hostess With The Mostest

Wooly Saketh

The Butler

Tastee Freeze Girls

Tim the Wizard

Honored Guest

Same shared start as French Maid and The Butler, but head directly up the face, then trend right into the sloping crack. Beta video in comments.

Start on a side pull up to an under cling up on the left, then press. After are a series of crimps up to the top out.

"Considered by some to be the best problem at rumbling bald" or so says Dorrity's guidebook. It's a classic for sure.

Start low in the sloping dish with a heel alongside your hands. work up through sloping rail and underside flakes to gain the front side of the arete. Reach over into upper dish and maintain friction as you work to the top out

SDS on huge left hand jug and right on arête.  Slap up the arête using your right hand and left on sidepulls.  Keep it together for an interesting mantle.

Side pull up to a under cling and press to another undercling off to the right following the crack, then a shaky move to a right sided jug, then straight up to the top out.

SDS on good sidepulls, make a move up to a HUGE left hand jug.  Using a right heel hook work your right hand up to the top and ride 'r out!  To make it more interesting, take the starting foot ledge off.

Regarded in the guidebook to be just as good as The French Maid. Try the moves and you will see that is a valid assessment.

Start the same as the French Maid, but, at the point where you hit the gaston left hand, go right hand instead to utilize the hold as a sidepull. Shuffle your left hand on some small crimps on the shaded underside of the boulder to hike your feet up. Make a long left hand toss to a three finger, 2-pad edge, just below the lip of the boulder. Core up, compress with a heel hook (or 2) and get to the glory jug at the top of the fin to top out.

Start on French Maid. Instead of going straight up after the first few moves, continue around to the underside of the boulder and follow the sharp rock and obvious flake. From the flake, make a long move to great holds at the lip.

Have your spotter bring their A game for the final move!

fun first several moves to an easy finish.

Description

Routes in French Maid Area