Variation finish to

Cyborg

that sends you to the top of

Blade Runner

. Only fully bolted route on the west face.

The Shaft

Electric Sheep

Replicants

Cyborg

Ti'ed

Blade Runner

Ascend the left-facing dihedral on the West face to a corner and crack system. The tricky corner gives way to a moderate crack that is protected by several camming units. Pretty solid all the way. Rock quality is fine although not exceptional. Cyborg was a good way to get test out the titanium advantage and get up and running on the sharp end. A fun addition.

The right-most route climbs past 3 bolts to a small roof.  From here, nice climbing with good gear leads straight up to the anchor.  The cruxes through the first 3 clips involve fun and elegant movement on excellent stone.

Climb the center of the wall left of

Electric Sheep

through a steep, bulging shield past 4 bolts.  The crux comes after the third clip, stepping left into a strenuous, layback flake.  After the fourth bolt, have a 1.5" cam ready for a horizontal crack.  The route takes gear from here going straight up and then moving right to the anchor on

Electric Sheep

.

Ti'ed follows the obvious crack system on the west face. Begin at a single bolt that protects the start. The flaring crack takes a couple of good pieces right away followed by some thin TCUs just before the second bolt 20ft up. The feet are much trickier than they might appear from the ground. Ti'ed links to the final 20ft of

Cyborg

, using the same trad gear. The post-surgical name comes right off the periodic table of the elements.

Climb the steep, north-facing, double overhanging arete and face.  This climb really has terrific movement and position but unfortunately passes through some crumbly stone about 2/3 of the way up.  Start by liebacking up a boulder that is separated from the main wall and then get established under the arete.  Expect a section of .11- before reaching a ledge with a hand rail.  Move left into a crack and shoot for a sharp fin left of the main arete.  The finishing moves on this steep fin are powerful and brilliant.  One more clip will get you to the anchor.  Some medium length draws will help guide the rope, and you might want to skip the first clip for the redpoint.

It has four star movement on two star stone.

Description

Protection

Routes in Bionic Crag