A powerful couple of moves down low leads to pumpy fun up above.   Towards the top, more solid rock is the black streak so please be mindful of stemming or wandering out right.   The approach gully is directly below you so you don't want to drop anything on unsuspecting folks.

Shorty

Sassy

Stemmy

Once You Go Black

Milky Milky (Juggy Juggy)

Spanky

Dreamy

Homage

Fun climbing on mostly good holds but the angle wears you down a bit.  The moves don't seem to hard but its a pumpy onsight for an .11.   Stick clip and use the belay bolt.

A hard series of moves off the deck, but the route will stick with you the rest of the way!   Shorter (doesn't go to the top because of rock quality issues up high), but for 5 bolts its full value.   Fun sequences!   Stick clip, but don't do what we did on the first FA attempt where we got past all the hard moves low only to realize we forgot to bring draws for the rest of the route.

Starts with some steep pulls but is pretty juggy most of the way.   A bit cruxy off the first bolt but there are several tricky spots in the first half of the route that wear you down for the fun and pumpy upper half.    You end up stemming quite a bit in what climbs like a very shallow corner.  This helps keep the grade down because the stems make great rests.   Really fun climbing.   Please be careful not to stem too far right as we didn't clean over there.

This gem of a route is on the right side of the prominent face directly above the access gully.   Pulls the far left side of the cave past a crux move off the first bolt (stick clip!!!).  Once past the boulder problem, just kick back and enjoy the jug hauling on quality stone.   The route goes into some jugs in the black rock for a bit and dances between white and black rock.  Once you go black...

Hard to grade this one because it is a little crux move off the start, but most of the route is pretty chill 5.10 climbing.   Sun from late morning until mid afternoon.

Around to the right is this varied and entertaining climb.  The name is just a funny little saying we came up with whenever encountering those welcome monster jugs on a route.   You will definitely get a milky milky juggy juggy about 3/4 the way up.  You can wrap both arms around the "egg" before tackling the final exit moves to the anchors.

Starts with a few tough pulls to the right of the belay bolt, then angle back left into the jugs.  Fun moves at an enjoyable grade.

Pulls a hard couple of moves out of the cave (just left of center) until it gains much better holds for the upper section.   The whole upper face is just plain fun.   You'd be crazy not to stick clip.  Sun from about 1pm onward.

This is the prominent orange/brown face directly in front of you when climbing the approach rungs.  This route had old bolts on it when we developed the surrounding area, and it even shows up as a project in some old versions of the Maple guide.  Unfortunately, pretty much all of the original bolts were questionable in quality and the route was never safely cleaned for climbing and was terribly loose and dangerous.   To pay "homage" to the crew who put the original bolts in, we wanted to try to make this route worthy of its prominent location and aesthetic position.   We spent nearly 3 days rebolting and cleaning.  It got a complete facelift and new anchors.   The result is it went from a dangerous nightmare to a really nice climb which should be quite popular.      Sun until late afternoon.  Stick clip!

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Maximum Main Wall