Mechanical Persistence is a great four pitch sport route up the Elysian Buttress.  Expect fun and engaging climbing.  This route makes for a great link-up with the Original Route. 

  Pitch 1 (5.10a) - The start for this route is located up and right from the Elysian's Original Route and down and left from the descent gully.  Climb straight up vertical face past a few bolts then up a featured slab with more fixed pro.  Move left at the top of this pitch to a two bolt anchor. (~90') 

  Pitch 2 (5.9) - Move up and left from anchors climbing over broken terrain to another two bolt anchor. (~90') 

  Pitch 3 (5.11a/b) - Move up and left off the belay and climb thin crimps past many bolts to a wonderful thank god hold.  Finish on easy slab to nice ledge with a two bolt anchor. (~100') 

  Pitch 4 (5.10b) - Straight up off belay to the top of the formation.  (~85') 

  Descent - Rappel down the 4th pitch of Mechanical Persistence to the top of pitch 3. From this anchor rap 70' down and right to a large ledge. Walk to the far side of this ledge and scramble down the gully and back to your packs.  It is possible to rappel down the entire route.  However it is nearly impossible to pull the ropes from the anchor atop pitch #3.

Mechanical Persistence

The Unemployment Line

Elysian Buttress Original Route

The Unemployment Line is another great sport line up the right hand section of the Elysian Buttress.  A little more traffic on this line will clean up the route a little possibly making it worth three stars. 

  Pitch 1 (5.11a) - Climb a short ramp with optional trad gear (Yellow TCU and/or #2 Camalot) to a line of 10 bolts.  Thin, sharp edges combine with fun foot work makes this pitch engaging and in your face from start to anchors.  Finish on a small ledge at a two bolt rap anchor. (~100')   

  Pitch 2 (5.11+) - Awesome pitch smears, underclings, and crimps past 8 bolts to another two bolt rap anchor. (~80') 

  Pitch 3 (5.11) - Climb up over a bulge to a nice stance, then cut up and right past several additional bolts to the two bolt summit anchor. (~70') 

  Descent - Three single rope rappels from bolted anchors to the ground.

The start of this route has several markers.  There is a cairn made of rocks and a stick that more or less marks the base.  Additionally to the route's right there are three fins of rock in a row.   

  Scramble up about 10 feet to the route's start.  It helps rope management if the belayer scrambles up and sits on a fin of rock that is just left of the route's start. 

  Pitch 1 - 5.7+ Head straight up crack system until a 3.5 or 4 camalot placement is possible and where the crack "gooves out" above.  At this point step down and traverse left on good but flexible holds.  Look for a second crack system and take this until it is possible to traverse back right to the main system.  Belay on a sloping ledge off small cams and slung horns and blocks.  (~120') 

  Pitch 2 (5.6) - Head up off the belay using creative gear in horizontal cracks climbing to a leftward slanting ramp system.  Climb this ramp until an exit right is available.  Run out the rope to a nice ledge which is below and left of the Skyline Pitch.  This belay takes small cams and stoppers.  It is also possible to stay on the ramp/gully system and exit at the top next to a dead tree.  From here one can climb up and right to the same belay ledge. (~200') 

  Pitch 3 (5.7+) - The Skyline Pitch.  Climb up and right past a small hueco and around a corner.  Find a thin crack with face holds and edges.  Climb up this crack until it ends, then step up and left to a good crack which slopes up and right.  Climb this crack to a flat spot below a chimney and belay of medium sized gear. (~100') 

  Pitch 4 (5.7+) - Climb chimney above belay surmounting small roof/chockstone at top.  Above this climb easy 5.4 corner to a nice ledge with two bolts and belay.  (These bolts mark the top of the third pitch of Mechanical Persistence and the second rappel anchor.) (~85') 

  Pitch 5 (5.6+) - Head up and left off the belay.  It is tempting to clip the first bolt on Mechanical Persistence, but this will give you terrible rope drag later on.  After climbing up about 15-20' traverse left across some ledges.  At this point look for the second ramp cutting up and right.  A nice finger to hands crack in this ramp will lead to the top and a two bolt rappel anchor. (~100') 

  Descent - From the final anchor rappel down the 4th pitch of Mechanical Persistence to the above mentioned rap anchor.  From the second rap anchor (at the top of Elysian's 4th pitch) rap 70' down and right to a large ledge.  Walk to the far side of this ledge and scramble down the gully and back to your packs.

On the eastern slopes of Mt. Elden lies a 500' tall Southeast facing cliff. This cliff is broken in the middle by a gully. Mechanical Persistence and the Original Route up the Elysian are to the left of this gully. The Unemployment Line is on the largest face right of the gully. This formation is composed of red stained Dacite. From the Original Route, you can see the remnants of sedimentary layers as they were pushed up along with the original lava dome. Red Schnebly Hill sandstone talus slopes and gray Redwall limestone rubble above that. 

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Elysian Buttress