One of the better offerings at Twin Crags.  A little heads up on lead, as the crux is ~25 feet off the ground, with only a couple small pieces in.  Sustained 5.10 climbing the whole way.

Dangerous Dan

Nipples That Cut Glass

A Fine Line

Pony Climb

Wild Bull Rider

Garden Party

Center Wall Corner

The Dihedral

Cornered

Nick's Route

Chris Toe

Tahoe Bolt Murder

Made Of Silk

By Fair Means

The Ghost

Johan's

Earth Girls Are Easy

Iron Jerks

Pinched-off dihedral to bolt ~25 feet off ground, back to gear, finish with another bolt up high and slightly left.  Gear before first bolt is small and a little funky.

Climb out left side of small cave, to bulge, to face.  Mostly gear, with one bolt in the upper section.  Slightly awkward but good climbing.  One of the longer routes here.

Fingers and hands crack.  Crux is pretty low, ~20' off the ground.  Continue up to upper chain anchors (not to rap rings for Slam Dunk, the bolted .12 to the right).

Insecure vertical climbing. The crux is moving up from flaring pod to next jam. PG13 as gear is finicky and difficult to place from insecure stances for the the first 20'.

A somewhat contrived, but decent route.  Very thin crack, to fingers, to 2 bolts.  The first bolt is unnecessary and tries to draw you on to the face.  Much better climb if you just follow the line of weakness (i.e., the cracks to the left of the bolt).

Near the left end of the crags climb the corner just left of Iron Jerks.

Garden Party

Follow a crack up the broken corner immediately to the right of Flirting with Disaster.

Climb the second corner left of Iron Jerks.

Cornered

The new North Tahoe guidebook states that the route "tackles the short buttress with the triangular roof", but it also doesn't provide a pic of the route. This may or may not be the same route. I found pulling over the roof to be closer to 5.10+ and somewhat height dependent, YMMV. Watch for loose rock.

Climb the crack immediately to the right of the column at the bottom of "By Fair Means." Once at the roof, work your way around to the right. Continue up the water streaked cracks above to chain anchors. The crux lies just before the route's one bolt, where the holds become more sloper-ish for a few moves.

Very thin crack to bolted face.  Lots of face moves, using crack primarily for gear.

Crack in left-facing corner.  Follow corner for ~40 feet, then head right to bolt-protected face moves.

Crack just to the right of "Jamolator", a bolted 5.12.  Pull a small roof ~25 feet up, head slightly left to anchors shared with "Jamolator" and "Nipples That Cut Glass".

Slightly wide crack, just left of "Nipples That Cut Glass".  Shares anchors with "Tahoe Bolt Murder" and "Club Toe" (.11c).  Not the best route, but not the worst either.

Climb the dirty, shaded gully to chain anchors at the top. The route follows the right side of the gully where pro placements seem to be more abundant compared to the left. Lots of good holds and has a very alpine feel due to the bits of broken rock through. Mossy cracks are more common here (may need to be cleaned), as this route stays shaded much of the time.

Thin double cracks, to hanging flake, to hands.  Flake is slightly hollow, be careful if placing gear behind it.  Easiest to finish at "Made Of Silk" anchors (to the right).

On the left side of the crag this is the corner just to the right of Garden Party.

Iron Jerks

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Twin Crags