Back in 06/07 we were romping around the McDowells constantly. We were climbing everything we could get our hands on. We know there were tons of climbers to test their skills in the area far before we ever graced this planet. We climbed the classics and climbed other lines that just looked worth a try..or several. On one full moon night we spent hours trying this thin slab boulder problem just to the right of the outstanding handcrack. After countless falls my good friend craig finally pulled over the top. By that point I was no longer spotting and instead watching his determination and drive play out to be one of his greatest climbing highlights. First ascent or not it made for some great memories. If anyone has any other info please post. Since this is still a project for me I had no idea what to rate it, get on it and tell me what you think.

Bad Moon Setting

Sphinctre Boy

Girls Best Friend

Dog Gone It

Girlie Man

Unknown 5.7

Smoother

Its Always Sunny in PHX

Unknown Handcrack

Sassy

Pastie Whitie

Excellent handcrack that starts with a few easy horizontal moves, then drop in bomber hands as it turns vertical to the top.

This is a right arching finger crack. Start in the crack climb it to its end then continue up face and slightly left to a two bolt anchor.

This route is a three bolt low angled slab climb located the farthest left of the wall. Climb straight up past three bolts to a two bolt anchor.

This is a short but wandering slab line. Start to the left of a low scoop climbing straight up to first bolt. Traverse right over scoop clipping second bolt. Continue up past thin horizontal crack past two more bolts in low angle trough up to a two bolt anchor.

Start at the base of Sassy. Begin by ascending the crack but then cross left onto the face, aiming for an obvious bolt, and continue climbing left of the arete.  Follow bolts straight up through a few thin friction moves (between first and second bolt) to easier ground.

If anyone has a route name and FA let me know.

This is a three bolt face climb located around the corner slightly up hill to the the left of Dog Gone It. Start is at base on the left of rounded and low angle face. Crux is friction intensive just below second bolt. The belayer should pay close attention as a ground fall is possible with too much slack. Continue straight up past one more bolt on easy ground to to bolt anchor at top small ledge.

This route is kinda contrived. For some, it might be a boulder problem, for others it might be a waste of time. At the time, it looked worth checking out and it ended up being okay. Ive only climbed it once and might not climb it again. But its there and worth a try if you cant think of anything else you want to do. It was gloomy and rainy all day that day and our other option besides climbing would have been to sit on our asses and watch Its Always Sunny in Philadelphia.

A long low angled dihedral. Pitch one start in low angled right facing dihedral climb straight up to tree 70 feet. Belay at tree or double bolts out on face; or continue up dihedral to its end to a two bolt belay at top of dihedral. Hard to see the double bolts until you are right on top of them. Rappel once with a 70 meter rope or make two rappels with a 60 meter rope down face. Possible to scramble off if preferred.

This is one of the longer slab climbs in the area. The crux is around the first bolt and the climbing continues far past that. It is run out on easier ground. Start on low angle face climbing up to a vertical rail and clip the first bolt. Continue straight up for approximately 15 feet to second bolt then straight up to a two bolt anchor; belay here or continue on past one more single bolt heading towards the top of the low angle dihedral to the climbers left. There are two bolts on the top of the dihedral. They are hard to see until you are right on top of them. It can be done in one long pitch. A 70 meter rope will let you descend with a single rappel or rappel with a 60 meter rope twice and the middle belay. Nice route to teach multi pitch to a beginning climber. Fun run out slab route. It is possible to scramble off but it will be a long scramble.

This is a mixed area with a few slab and a few traditional crack routes. The rock is typical granite found throughout the McDowell Mountain park.

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Location

Protection

Routes in Girlie Man Area