Flying Tigers

Silence of the Poodles

Wooly Bugger

Swamp Thing

Scalded By Spivey

Swat Team

Superfly

M.O.

My Favorite Animal is a Liger

No Mo' M.O.

La Chappeau

And Monkeys Might Fly Out My Butt

Most people will probably avoid this thing like the plague, but it is actually quite good.  It is the lefthand route on the beautiful pink slab.  Right off the ground the climbing is thin, hard and slabby.  A little less than half way up the even harder slabby crux hits you.  If you can crimp past this, you will finally be rewarded with actual holds and slightly easier climbing to the top of the tower.

This high quality route  starts with a sweet crack corner system which is jammed and laybacked up to a big jug and a stance below the small overlap. From here pass 2 more bolts up the tricky face/seam to the anchors. Felt a bit harder than the other 5.8's in the area.

Scramble up easy crack, then head up the steep arête using long dynamic moves to big holds and thin, powerful crimping. The location and exposure above the river is fantastic.

Swamp thing is apparently the first route in the Gorge, but more importantly it is one of the most exciting routes I've done at the place. It starts off of the little pole-bridge that crosses to the dihedrals, and follows a hand crack that widens to a fun off-width section. From this a bolt protects a cruxy and somewhat dirty corner crux. After passing this crux a splitter, proud, and elegant hand crack awaits, which leads into a intriguing bomb-bay of lose blocks.

Start with a boulder problem crux at the first bolt.  Follow a thin crack to a small roof, do a couple of arete moves, then easy face ending at the anchor slightly off to the left.

Although this route has an independent  anchor of it's own it can also serve as a variation start to P1 of Superfly.  So, alternatively, instead of going left to the anchor climb the right leaning flake/crack until running into P1 of Superfly just before it's steep section.

Two v. fine pitches -- the first up to an exciting roof (which is more traversed than surmounted: right off a big horn, then back left on big holds), the second with a steep flake/corner of liebacking and jamming.

Comfortable ledge between pitches.

One seasoned Gorger I know calls this the best 5.10 in the ORG.

Climb the crack through the low roof, past a large wedged block, and through the wide section to easier chossy rock. Traverse to the anchors on Scalded by Spivey. Despite a bit of exfoliation low and loose rock at the top this route is an excellent ORG crack climb.

Climb up an easy dihedral to a bolt atop a flake (~30 feet), follow a crack up through a roof, then left through another roof to a short slab then pull through a third roof to the anchor. Crux is the section through the first/second roof.

Start up the crack with some strenuous moves, then ease into the wider crack.

Fun wide route at a moderate grade. Rock quality is better than the nearby M.O though this looks to see less traffic and thus might be dirtier.

At the top, either continue up and left to rappel Scalded by Spivey, or easier traverse a few feet left to the obvious anchors belonging to Flying Tigers (11c)

Crack, then traverse right to anchor of Swamp Thing.

Crux after 6th bolt and right at the top.  So, so thin, balancey and technical.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Cracked Towers